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May 31, 2010 (Monday)
Post-session
Solo fun at M's. Late morning and pretty empty everywhere. How nice.
Windy and sloppy but some good rides to be had. But very disappointing since not as big or not much energy for a "new" swell. Some thought yesterday bigger. I thought not.
Went back for an afternoon session with my son (who's visiting from the mainland). It was smaller and packed. Lots of kooks. Guess everyone slept in then slithered to the beach to work off the hangover?
Posted at 10:15 PM
May 29, 2010 (Saturday)
Summary
When I got back, the Regular was kinda fun. High tide and windy, weak, soft and mushy, fat and slope-y. But oh-so rippable from the inside end-corner to almost the beach. All that water and wind served as a conveyance. If you got the right one, then you got a nice long ride. That's what made it interesting: finding the nugget and staying on as long as possible.
That lasted until the end of the week; then the winds changed, and the waterscape altered. It's been small and packed ever since. Real circus. Choked with neophytes on logs. The other day, watching from the cars saw one collision and one near-miss in the space of a few minutes. Pretty much everyone getting a wave would eat it quickly, usually suddenly and unexpectedly for no apparent (read: perceptible) reason. Unpredictability is the cause of hazard and danger, and it was there in abundance.
So, for the previous three days been hitting BM's alone to avoid peril. Small and dismal with some ride-able bowl-ages. Today was probably the best due to the tide level (which has been very high in the afternoon). Not too much water so the energy could feel the reef optimally.
Where's the new swell? First I heard Friday/Saturday, then Saturday, now it's Sunday. No sign of it today, so we might have a no-show tomorrow.
Posted at 10:47 PM
May 8, 2010 (Saturday)
Post-session
Way inside on the end-corner at Regular. Doable but small and very soft and mushy from the wind and high tide.
Will be taking a break from posting until after 5/21. Going out of town on a family vacation. See you when I get back.
Posted at 10:24 PM
May 7, 2010 (Friday)
Post-session
No session yesterday due to work. Did Regular and it was so, so bad. Small, windy, and gutless.
Posted at 11:46 PM
May 5, 2010 (Wednesday)
Post-session
Similar but smaller. With a friend at M's. We both started at Regular, and I was doing okay. Then my friend wanted to head to M's because he wasn't having fun. It was doable but boring. We stayed for several and then called it.
On my last one in, I dropped and belly-boarded at the end and almost ran over a huge coral head that passed to my side without warning. If it hit head-on it would've been ugly. I was so lucky. I knew it was shallow and that I was amidst the coral field, but it was high tide and I didn't see anything. Phew.
Posted at 10:21 PM
May 4, 2010 (Tuesday)
Post-session
M's alone and then a friend joined. Worse than yesterday but I had some fun ones. My friend didn't have a good time.
Posted at 6:31 PM
May 3, 2010 (Monday)
Post-session
No session yesterday due to work. Friend and I did M's. The deep, back bowl was crowded. We stayed wider at our usual peak and scored good ones. It improved progressively until it was downright going off. We caught whatever we wanted and had an absolute blast. Uh-huh.
Posted at 11:30 PM
May 1, 2010 (Saturday)
Post-session
With a friend at BM's. Initially I wasn't getting anything while my friend kept doing laps on the lefts, but once I figured it out I began scoring some fun rights. We stayed for a bit then finished at Regular where it was crazy-crowded.
Posted at 11:24 PM