« Post-session | Extempore | Post-session »
May 29, 2010 (Saturday)
Summary
When I got back, the Regular was kinda fun. High tide and windy, weak, soft and mushy, fat and slope-y. But oh-so rippable from the inside end-corner to almost the beach. All that water and wind served as a conveyance. If you got the right one, then you got a nice long ride. That's what made it interesting: finding the nugget and staying on as long as possible.
That lasted until the end of the week; then the winds changed, and the waterscape altered. It's been small and packed ever since. Real circus. Choked with neophytes on logs. The other day, watching from the cars saw one collision and one near-miss in the space of a few minutes. Pretty much everyone getting a wave would eat it quickly, usually suddenly and unexpectedly for no apparent (read: perceptible) reason. Unpredictability is the cause of hazard and danger, and it was there in abundance.
So, for the previous three days been hitting BM's alone to avoid peril. Small and dismal with some ride-able bowl-ages. Today was probably the best due to the tide level (which has been very high in the afternoon). Not too much water so the energy could feel the reef optimally.
Where's the new swell? First I heard Friday/Saturday, then Saturday, now it's Sunday. No sign of it today, so we might have a no-show tomorrow.
Posted at 10:47 PM