July 31, 2010 (Saturday)
M's, BM's, M's. Very unremarkable and underwhelming. Catch a few at M's then a bunch at BM's. Not bad at BM's, some decent sets, but get bored and start to struggle. Time to move. Finish at M's.
Posted at 10:48 PM
July 30, 2010 (Friday)
From the car, was expecting it to be big but looks relatively tame. Talking to one of the regulars who is watching. He says there are big sets and that morning session had bombs. People were taking off and getting pitched with the lip or falling on the takeoff and skipping/twirling down the face. I'm thinking: So it must be out of control, but there's just a lull now. That's what I'm anticipating.
Not the case. Some bigger, wild outside sets; but for the most part kinda weak and puffy. Tide is high and trades are strong. I was struggling. Having a bad day. Initially stuck on outside and constantly battling current to move in and get stuck on the treadmill for at least half an hour. Can see that the inside, end-corner is probably the best call. Try to get there but the rip is formidable. Can see one of the regulars scoring on the inside bowl. Finally able to catch a few, but last one is the best and salvages an otherwise awful time.
Posted at 11:13 PM
July 29, 2010 (Thursday)
M's. Three guys already out. Messy, chunky, shifty, heaving, strong current, over-head sets with good push. The other guys were clueless, and I was catching waves non-stop for the first half hour. Having a blast. Totally satisfied.
Then very long lulls interspersed with illusive and tricky dribblers with deteriorating conditions/form. One regular joins then goes in. I'm waiting for a last one, and massive ten-wave (at least) set breaks on far outside. Seems like new energy with different flavor (more power) from SW. From that moment, noticeably more push and size. Catch two more and call it. Last one pretty good.
Posted at 7:41 PM
July 28, 2010 (Wednesday)
Watching from the car, M's looked good. Bigger, for sure, but it was sloppy and choppy. Another bad day (boo-hoo). Best wave was my last.
Posted at 8:12 PM
July 27, 2010 (Tuesday)
Much bigger and indicator breaks lighting up with outside sets. Didn't have a good day. Felt very unbalanced and unsteady. Went leashless and lost my board twice. Windy and high tide made it choppy and bouncy.
It's the biggest it's been in a while. Supposed to be getting a swell on Thursday so guess it's showing early(?).
Posted at 7:04 PM
July 26, 2010 (Monday)
Smallest in a while. Tiny and only breaking on far, far inside. Started at BM's then moved to M's then finished at Regular.
Posted at 11:38 PM
July 25, 2010 (Sunday)
Regular. Smaller but cleaner and feeling the reef nicely and actually much better than expected. Some very rideable tiny blips on the far-inside, end-corner. Brief but satisfying session. Not too crowded but more people just before I went in.
Posted at 11:42 PM
July 24, 2010 (Saturday)
No sessions the previous two days due to illness. Strange. Guess it was some kind of flu. Had extreme exhaustion, gastric distress, and headache. Could barely walk. Still had to go to work yesterday because no one could cover my shift. Just stayed in the back office while a regular staff member covered for me on the floor.
Still not well. Did Regular and sat on the inside end-corner. Just wanted to get wet. Snagged some fun ones. It was crowded. Stayed about an hour.
Posted at 7:48 PM
July 21, 2010 (Wednesday)
Regular. Kinda fun with a few longboard hogs trying to make it their exclusive break. Much better than expected. Got crowded just before I went in.
Posted at 6:45 PM
July 20, 2010 (Tuesday)
M's alone while friend opts for Regular. Super long lulls. Somewhat satisfied. No stress and relaxing but nothing even remotely like yesterday.
Posted at 5:02 PM
July 19, 2010 (Monday)
Best session in a long, long time. Super fun ones at M's. Two other guys out, but I was catching whatever I wanted. High tide, windy, with lots of chop in face. But scored some awesome rides all the way to BM's. Was grinning ear-to-ear. Got less consistent after about half an hour, but by then I was completely satisfied -- anything after that was gravy. Had two super-memorable rides. Stoked. That's why we surf.
Posted at 11:56 PM
July 18, 2010 (Sunday)
M's alone. Late afternoon, quick one after work. Many lulls but some fun ones. Satisfied.
Posted at 10:31 PM
July 17, 2010 (Saturday)
M's alone then one of the regulars joined. It looked crappy from the cars, but I was surprised when I got out. It was much better than it appeared, and I started scoring good waves immediately. Then the outside sets backed off, and i was getting many good rides on the inside. Good session. Totally satisfied.
Posted at 11:40 PM
July 16, 2010 (Friday)
Started at BM's alone, then joined two regulars at M's. Kinda junk and they decided to move to Regular, and that's when I scored as the sets began coming in. Many good rides.
Posted at 7:51 PM
July 15, 2010 (Thursday)
M's with a friend. At first some lulls with most breaking in the pseudo-bowl, then I started scoring at the wide-bowl. Getting many fun rides. Fun.
Posted at 8:05 PM
July 14, 2010 (Wednesday)
A-framer again, with two friends, Right-hander regular joined. Fun at first then slower. Hip feels almost 100%. Afterward up by the cars, all nearby spots looked real good.
Posted at 7:37 PM
July 13, 2010 (Tuesday)
A-framer. Fun. Ah, yes, felt good to surf one of my favorite places.
Some lulls and then surge of sets. Right-hander regular joined me. We traded some rippable bowl-ages. Started getting better and we were getting excited. Then the west winds came and simply ruined it. By then, however, I was completely satisfied.
My board felt great. Did some gratifying bashes. Felt relaxed and was on it.
Posted at 6:29 PM
July 12, 2010 (Monday)
Started at M's. Long lulls initially then a surge of sets then dismal. Finished at Regular.
Posted at 11:43 PM
July 11, 2010 (Sunday)
Alone at M's for some okay ones.
Posted at 11:26 PM
July 10, 2010 (Saturday)
Bigger but very soft (fat high tide, 2.6 feet). Friend and I started at Regular. Gave it about 15 minutes then lost my patience and moved to M's. Then paddled to BM's, back to M's, then back to Regular. Looked so good from the cars before and afterward. Why?
Posted at 11:12 PM
July 9, 2010 (Friday)
Saw a friend earlier in the day who said Regular looked good. Said new energy with "three footers" and nice conditions/form. Got excited.
After work, raced to the beach. Junk. Small and high tide and sloppy. Sat on the inside, away from the crowd. One of the regulars did confirm the morning had been good (with three footers).
Posted at 10:48 PM
July 8, 2010 (Thursday)
Regular. Super crowded. Everyone was out. High tide, weak, soft, inconsistent. Sucked.
Posted at 8:06 PM
July 7, 2010 (Wednesday)
A-framer. It was small and sloppy, but one of the regulars was making it look fun. Friend and I joined. Wasn't so easy. I was having difficulty, especially with my bad hip. Couldn't get to my feet quickly enough. Lots of chop in the face. Then the other guy went to the Right-hander, and things improved just when we were considering calling it. We got a surge of sets that salvaged the session and had us smiling. Was really nice to do the A-framer because it's been a while.
Posted at 8:46 PM
July 6, 2010 (Tuesday)
Surprising fun at BM's. Initially, wasn't sure so paddled to M's. Sucked so went back to BM's. Hip was feeling much better, and I was doing pretty well. Had been planning to finish at Regular but didn't have to. Tired and disgusted with Regular, especially after the previous two days.
Posted at 8:12 PM
July 5, 2010 (Monday)
Regular. Friend coming out said he "had a blast" and that there some "mean doubles" coming in. Of course, that wasn't my experience. The high tide was ruining it. Soft and slope-y. Crowded (happy holiday) and inconsistent. Injured hip feeling almost normal.
Posted at 11:05 PM
July 4, 2010 (Sunday)
Smaller. Started at M's with one other guy. So-so but boring. Moved to Regular to finish. Super crowded and frustrating. Should've stayed at M's.
Posted at 11:49 PM
July 3, 2010 (Saturday)
Started at M's. It was weird. Seemed like two directions that were crossed-up. Moved to Regular and did the inside. Soon, however, some nice sets on the outside lured me and I scored several. Lots of kooks doing some big-time eats. Wanted to stay but had to work. Went in at the right time because it got packed.
Posted at 11:36 PM
July 2, 2010 (Friday)
Regular looked nice but crowded. Did M's, BM's, then M's again to finish. Afterward, heard Regular had been "going off" with almost-epic form. Hmm...
Posted at 10:01 PM
July 1, 2010 (Thursday)
The hip is better. Frustrating time at Regular. Some irritating kooks. My last wave was my best.
Posted at 7:19 PM