August 31, 2010 (Tuesday)
Regular. Started on the outside then found solace on the inside, end-corner. One of the longboard regulars was hogging and taking everything (which wasn't much). Friend comes out and says looks good form the cars. I know. But it sucks. Snagged a lot of small insiders but had only one decent ride.
Posted at 6:49 PM
August 30, 2010 (Monday)
Regular. Much smaller but looked doable and lined up with not many people. Scored some decent ones at first on the inside. Then saw a few on the outside and decided to give it a go. That's when it got crowded and the outside died. Nothing, zip, zilch. All of us were forced to paddled to the far inside. Really dismal. Did get a handful of dribblers before going in. Someone said we're supposed to get a new SW today.
Posted at 1:07 PM
August 29, 2010 (Sunday)
Regular. It doesn't look too bad, but it's definitely smaller. Not crowded considering it's the weekend.
One of the regulars just came out and says it's really junk: outside absolutely not happening and inside has gutless slop with no re-forms. I find it to be not so bad, with some doubly insiders. Initially, there are some outside sets, but those quickly stop and I end up at the ol' end-corner bowl. Lots of kids there offering considerable competition and getting in the way.
Posted at 11:02 PM
August 28, 2010 (Saturday)
M's with a friend. Many insiders where my friend was having a field day. I stayed on the outside and pretty much got skunked. Friend didn't stay long. That's when it got better with bigger and more consistent sets. Had it to myself and caught a bunch that compensated for earlier. Satisfied.
Posted at 11:49 PM
August 27, 2010 (Friday)
Late afternoon at Regular. Very crowded. Two kook longboarders trying to dominate. I know everyone was getting irritated. It was the classic scenario: low skill and overly aggressive. Overheard one say he was from Publics. When I heard that I just laughed to myself. The other had gloves, goggles, and a hat. How poetic. It made so much sense that it could be a movie plot. I was just waiting for a chance to drop in and scar the face of the wave in front of one of these idiots, but I never got the chance. I did drop in a few times, but I was pretty far down the line that it didn't make a difference. For the most part, stayed on the end-corner and snagged some sets that swung wide of the main peak where the pack was thick and concentrated.
Posted at 10:41 PM
August 26, 2010 (Thursday)
Regular with a friend. Bigger but windy and sloppy; and weak and slope-y from the high tide. Thankfully, relatively empty--no kooks/regulars to deal with like yesterday. Can't say I had a single good ride, though. But much less stress, so I'll take it.
Posted at 7:40 PM
August 25, 2010 (Wednesday)
Regular. Crowded. Long, long, long lulls. One-wave "sets." My best ride would've been one where one of the regulars dropped in behind me and I couldn't do full cutbacks to the pit and had to turn and hit out on the shoulder ahead of him. Maddening. He should've just kicked out and let me have the wave because I had been waiting patiently on the outside for a long time and he essentially snaked me. When my tolerance for the kooks reached its limit, I couldn't catch a last one in. Super, f***ing frustrating. Why does this happen to me so frequently? Always have an awful finish.
Posted at 6:00 PM
August 24, 2010 (Tuesday)
Regular looked good--consistent. Friend heads to Regular, and I initiate crowd-avoidance mode and opt for M's. Catch a few right away then miss several. Some sets but long lulls. Move to Regular. Immediately start scoring on the outside. Fun. Tire quickly. Had many good rides but didn't do even a single solid hit in the pocket. Overall soft, mushy, and section-y, but doubly on inside.
Posted at 5:54 PM
August 23, 2010 (Monday)
Regular. It looked good from the car. The kooks were out en masse. Missed five good set waves because I got snaked. Didn't catch anything for about 45 minutes, which speaks more to my lack of skill. Super frustrating. Begrudgingly moved to the inside. Finally score my first, and it's sweet; but I had to drop in on one of the regulars, which was justified as she (yes, she) dropped in behind me after I was up and riding. Stayed in the middle and played the inside, too, then got fed up and called it. Had an agonizing time getting my last (probably as much as the first).
Vid: Balls and cars.
Posted at 11:34 PM
August 22, 2010 (Sunday)
Three local longboard pros dominating Regular. Funny because just a few years back I would've challenged because it's my spot AND they're longboarders. That was the punk in me. But now I couldn't care less. Those days are done (I think). Instead just stayed to myself on the inside, end-corner, hiding and skulking, like I usually do, beneath the radar, incognito. Even made time for a jaunt to M's then finished back at Regular. Overall, it sucked.
Posted at 10:59 PM
August 21, 2010 (Saturday)
Quick one at Regular. Scored some set waves immediately then it died out. Ended on the far inside. Lots of water from the high tide.
Posted at 11:55 PM
August 20, 2010 (Friday)
Looked fun from the cars. Started at Regular with a friend. Fairly crowded given the infrequency of sets, got impatient and uneasy (remember: I've developed extreme crowd anxiety/phobia), moved to M's. Idiot longboarder wearing a visor, shades, and gloves followed. Just my kind of buddy. What a loser. He tried to make conversation with me. I reluctantly offer up some idle chatter while I snag occasional insiders and he flounders. He's clueless.
As we both are driven to the painful conclusion that it sucks, he drifts backs to Regular, and I quickly do the same, settling on the inside, end-corner. Score several good ones that salvage the session and leave me completely satisfied.
Note: Based on many years of surfing, I can say that it's an axiom someone using webbed gloves with a shortboard or longboard is a skill-less dolt. I'm undecided about bodyboarders.
Consider that such an appliance actually reduces propulsion efficiency. Isn't there research to confirm this? Isn't it more effective to use just your hands? Also, don't gloves put unnecessary stress on the elbow?
Posted at 11:29 PM
August 19, 2010 (Thursday)
Late afternoon at M's alone. Shifty/tricky and inconsistent but scored some good ones.
CNN vid: "Surfing makes me feel like I'm flying."
Posted at 7:03 PM
August 18, 2010 (Wednesday)
A-framer with a friend. We've been waiting for the A to offer up some bowl-y goodness, and it looked like this was the day. Alas, it wasn't as it had appeared, although my friend did have fun on the lefts initially. The rights were chunky and challenging and most were all-shoulder. Saw two sharks.
Posted at 6:44 PM
August 17, 2010 (Tuesday)
With a friend. He opts for Regular, and I do M's. Some sets. I missed a few and caught a few.
Decide to finish at Regular. Light wind but high tide and super slope-y. Wow, it's bad. My friend is over at an adjacent break. I get skunked. Now it's pretty much flat, and I barely snag anything. One of the worst days in a while.
CNN vid: Australian surfer killed by shark.
Posted at 6:50 PM
August 16, 2010 (Monday)
BM's, M's, then Regular. Super fun at Regular on the inside, end-corner. Mushy, doubly, rippable bowl-ages.
Posted at 11:24 PM
August 15, 2010 (Sunday)
Regular. Crowded. I stand on the beach and watch for 15 minutes as about 20 people paddle out. Argh.
I head out and try my best on the very slope-y and mushy drivel. Cannot catch anything. Finally I score one, as the crowd increases.
A nice set over at M's catches my attention. I paddle over. At first, I'm just sitting. But then some fun ones come in, and I start scoring. Get a handful that salvage the session and leave me completely satisfied.
Posted at 11:21 PM
August 14, 2010 (Saturday)
BM's is crowded. Why??? Friend and I hit it anyway. Some fun rights/lefts but very soft and mushy.
Posted at 11:02 PM
August 13, 2010 (Friday)
Biggest it's been in a week. With a friend at M's. Nothing coming in, so he goes to Regular and I move to BM's. It's not bad (actually, kinda lined-up), but the rising tide worsens the form considerably. Then two irritating kooks invade. I try to be patient but they wear down my nerves. They win, and I go back to M's where it's better than earlier but still most waves are simply passing over the reef without breaking. Head over to Regular to finish.
Posted at 11:12 PM
August 12, 2010 (Thursday)
With a friend. We split: he heads to Regular, I start for M's but detour to BM's when I see some decent wave action. It was okay with lined-up rights and much better than expected, but still not that good (mushy, sloppy). Then I see my friend at M's catching some insiders, so I decide to go over. Friend leaves to return to Regular, I persist but get nada, zilch. I then go to Regular and score three successive waves on the end-corner that are the best rides I've had in more than a week. Leaving me super stoked and satisfied. Nice finish to a mediocre start.
Posted at 7:49 PM
August 11, 2010 (Wednesday)
Regular. Small, windy, and sloppy. From the cars, we watched as one of the regulars (a former pro) and his friend on a longboard killed the inside, end-corner bowl. They were having a blast. We joined and managed to snag some in the initial half hour, but then it quickly deteriorated and got abysmal. Very disappointing.
Posted at 8:13 PM
August 10, 2010 (Tuesday)
Inside end-corner at Regular. Some doable dribblers. For the most part quite pathetic.
Give me some f-ing McNuggets or I will hurt you. I'm not kidding.
Posted at 6:19 PM
August 9, 2010 (Monday)
Surprisingly decent wind swell ('bout time). Much better and much more wave action. Initially non-stop doubles at the end-corner bowl. Then slower.
Please, don't bring your gun to the wedding.
More uplifting: "Catch a wave in Wyoming."
Posted at 11:47 PM
August 8, 2010 (Sunday)
Some okay ones initially at Regular at the inside, end-corner then total crap. Gutless, sloppy dribblers. Windy.
Posted at 11:23 PM
August 7, 2010 (Saturday)
Yesterday I wanted to do the A-framer, and it was still stuck in my mind, so I gave it shot. At first, it was promising with rights/lefts over the somewhat shallow reef. But quickly it deteriorated as the wind got stronger and the form sloppier. Less consistent waves added to the misery. Later by the car, Regular on the inside looked real fun, and it wasn't crowded (natch). Go figure.
Posted at 11:16 PM
August 6, 2010 (Friday)
By the car, one of the regulars who had just come in insisted the "best bet" was BM's or M's because there were some good sets. But it looked dismal. Against my intuition and gut (wanted to do A-framer), I followed his unfortunate advice. It sucked. Did both places and there was barely anything. Finished at Regular where it was only slightly better.
Posted at 11:38 PM
August 5, 2010 (Thursday)
Quick one this morning before all-day meeting at work. Wow, new swell? Some great sets at M's. Solid over-headers with push. One other guy, and both of us scoring. Had some awesome rides. Then was in a rush to get home and couldn't snag a last one in. Fell off on two decent insiders and got stressed and frustrated. Ignoble end to an otherwise great (albeit brief) session.
Every surfer should have at least one surfboard with headlights and LEDs.
Posted at 7:05 PM
August 4, 2010 (Wednesday)
M's, BM's, M's, Regular. Just wanted to avoid the crowd. Everyone was at Regular. The hogs were out in full force. Real circus. But it was without doubt the best place with some nice, long rippable walls. M's and BM's were sloppy, soft, and disorganized. And there were some kooks there, too, so I didn't have those spots to myself (as is usually the case). And at Regular, there was a hierarchy of pigs because it was so stacked.
Posted at 7:28 PM
August 3, 2010 (Tuesday)
Supposed to be big. Only slightly more. Messy and disorganized. Started at BM's with a friend. After just a few sets, my friend headed to M's. I followed. Very disappointing. Then suddenly it got crowded. What's happening? Why? We return to BM's. Then it's gets crowded there too. Huh? Next the kooks from M's come over, and now it's a party. That was all I could tolerate. Didn't bother me much, though, because I was still stoked on yesterday's session.
Posted at 5:20 PM
August 2, 2010 (Monday)
Long overdue. Super fun at BM's. Had it solo with rights/lefts lining up. Perfect direction, tide, and form. Some bombers coming in. Was doing very well (even backside). Proud of myself.
Posted at 11:12 PM
August 1, 2010 (Sunday)
Heard beforehand from a friend that it was awful but instead found it to be quite decent and much better than expected. Somewhat clean with fun doubles hitting the end-corner. A few selfish longboarders trying to ruin it for everyone by pigging out. What's up, I ask for the umpteenth time, with low-skill, clueless dolts on big boards trying to dominate? Just the nature of the beast, I guess; meaning, stupid is as stupid does.
Posted at 11:01 PM