November 28, 2010 (Sunday)
Regular. Smaller: looked almost flat. Considered going home, but I wouldn't be surfing for the next two days due to work, so I had to give it a go.
Initially tiny but then got better, more wave action and slightly bigger. Was hanging on the end-corner, far inside. Everyone else was in the middle. Overall paltry but I was satisfied given the paucity of offerings.
Posted at 6:19 PM
November 27, 2010 (Saturday)
Windy and chilly (definitely some north in the wind). Inside, end-corner looked doable, but it was very sloppy and blown. Had some okay rides. All the wind and the cold quickly made it intolerable. Pure wind-drivel.
Posted at 11:12 PM
November 25, 2010 (Thursday)
Regular with a friend. Better. More wave action due to the strong wind. Some okay ones. Much more fun than yesterday.
Posted at 8:10 PM
November 24, 2010 (Wednesday)
Regular with a friend. Not crowded and then packed. Unremarkable and very mediocre.
Posted at 9:08 PM
November 21, 2010 (Sunday)
M's. Everyone leaving said it was smaller and junker. It didn't look that way to me, seemed like more wave action.
Was standing on the beach to paddle out to the A-framer and realized it was just too small. Windy and teeny. Could see some sets hitting M's, so opted for that (Regular was way too crowded--natch).
It was fairly consistent for an hour. Just me and a longboard beginner. Not non-stop but not much of a wait, either, and sometimes one-after-another. Decent rides with decent push (because of the wind?), bigger, west-y. New energy? Think so. Much better than yesterday. I was completely satisfied after that first hour. Had some good rides, and my board was working well.
Right after I got home yesterday, I took my damaged board to the surf shop downstairs for repair. Went to work, and when I got home that night my board was waiting in the hallway on the floor outside the door to my apartment. Wow, can't get better service than that, eh? And no charge. Definitely can't beat that deal, and they did a fantastic job of fixing it. The patches were very clean and well done. I'm extremely pleased. Oh yeah, and I sent in my deposit for a new board.
Posted at 10:51 PM
November 20, 2010 (Saturday)
M's. Two guys already out, then me alone, then a friend joined. Very weak but with decent conditions/form. Somewhat frustrating. All other spots were packed. My last one was my best.
Walking from the car to the beach, I slipped twice and bashed my board pretty badly. I was so, so, so-o pissed. Thought about turning around and heading home to grab another board but the time constraint due to work made that untenable.
And when faced with that choice, what the heck, it's the primacy and importance of the passion/act itself that takes precedence over any neurotic obsession with objects (read: equipment), right? (Please say yes.) Cuz you know how I love my boards. And just because that happened, I'll take that as my cue to order my next one. Probably will go EPS.
Posted at 11:43 PM
November 19, 2010 (Friday)
Regular then M's then back to finish at Regular. Light north-y wind. Supposed to rain, but it's nice.
Regular: Crowded. Inconsistent. Catch one on the outside.
M's: Alone then a handful of kooks invade. Miss the wave of the day and then stubbornly wait for another, which never comes.
Regular: Packed with all kinds (guys, girls, longies, shorts, spongers, surf-school beginners, etc.). Everyone snagging something while I get continually out-positioned. Argh!!! Super, super frustrated. Fuming. Terrible time.
Posted at 11:28 PM
November 17, 2010 (Wednesday)
No session yesterday. A-framer with friend. One guy out. Looks fun from the cars. We're excited, and the rights and lefts look rippable as we approach. Initially, we're having a good time, and I get many mediocre rides and two awesome ones, which make my day. Then I struggle and my session descends into awfulness. I eat it on the takeoff twice, including pulling back and then getting sucked over the falls. Takes forever to get a last one and I hit the beach frustrated and unhappy. But nonetheless it was nice to surf the A--probably my favorite spot.
Posted at 8:20 PM
November 15, 2010 (Monday)
Regular. Late afternoon. Bobbing around and twiddling thumbs. Friend comes over and suggests going to M's. I look. Is there anything? He just smiles. We paddle over and score. Lots of fun. Small, windy, and sloppy but some rippable bowl-ages and sections all the way to the inside coral heads. Very surprising.
Posted at 9:14 PM
November 14, 2010 (Sunday)
Some of the regulars watching from the cars say it's bigger than yesterday. Doesn't look it to me.
Opt for M's. Slightly "crowded" with five people before I paddle out, but by the time i reach the peak I'm alone. It's awful. Finish at Regular where it's just as crappy.
Posted at 8:10 PM
November 13, 2010 (Saturday)
M's with a bunch of kook longies. Nice conditions but weak. Some small fun ones and better than expected. It's odd that M's is rideable or doable because the energy is so weak. Oh well. Satisfied.
Posted at 11:07 PM
November 12, 2010 (Friday)
No session yesterday. Regular. Morning before work. Showing lots of potential with much more wave action. Promising but very disappointing. Some decent ones, but I missed them all due to positioning. Did the inside, end-corner for an hour then rushed to work.
Posted at 10:04 PM
November 10, 2010 (Wednesday)
Regular. End-corner. Really soft. Lined up but utterly gutless. Total crap.
So I got a new PC, and I love it. It's running a Core i5 (760) with 6 megs of RAM, and it's frickin' fast. Of course, that's comparing it to my previous machine, which had a Pentium 4 (so you know it was time to upgrade--think I got the most out of my old system, for sure). I've been reinstalling apps and transferring data, and it's been a luxury to run both computers side-by-side.
I've found that certain things weren't that easy to migrate. Example: iTunes. Apple just doesn't make the process simple. What would you assume? Just copy over all your songs from the iTunes folder? What about preserving all the album art, playlists, and ratings, etc.? Not so straightforward. Believe me.
Posted at 6:58 PM
November 7, 2010 (Sunday)
Regular. Smaller. Windy. Super boring. Didn't use a leash and swam four times(!!!). Argh.
Posted at 11:56 PM
November 6, 2010 (Saturday)
Regular. Slightly bigger and windy. My best was my last. Ho-hum.
Posted at 11:55 PM
November 5, 2010 (Friday)
Regular, inside end-corner. Lowish tide and east-y, breaking wide-out. Kinda crowded but most people were deeper in the middle, and I was able to score a handful before anyone was the wiser. Not bad: lined-up, nice edge on the floor, bowl-y. Didn't last, though, as the rising tide brought more water and mushiness, creating a softer, rounder floor. And everyone migrated toward me.
Posted at 11:44 PM
November 3, 2010 (Wednesday)
Regular. Small and clean. Very inconsistent and soft. Boring. Great to be in the water, though, after missing yesterday.
Posted at 8:42 PM
November 1, 2010 (Monday)
M's. Late afternoon after work. Looked small initially. Friend who just came in said there were some sets. Watched for a few minutes, and sure enough some decent sets appeared. Very inconsistent but doable. Had it to myself and then two kook longboarders joined; then a bodyboarder; then two friends separately. At that point, considering the low frequency of the sets, it was crowded. Lost interest and got bored. Called it after almost two hours.
Posted at 7:29 PM