January 29, 2011 (Saturday)
BM's alone. Very small. Micro. Wouldn't you know? No leash and lose my board. Yes, so small that it would be laughable to swim. But you know me, I never fail to amaze.
I finish a ride and turn off and stay standing. We've all done it. Sink the board casually and then plop down and paddle away. But I put too much weight on my front foot and my board shoots out. No prob. Water feels great. I surface and turn to grab my board just in time to see a ripple of whitewater hit it and carry it all the way to the frickin' beach. Yeah. Low tide and BM's reef had me crawling over the coral on the inside. Not fun. Did I mention it went to the BEACH?
Get to my board. First thing: Any dings? There were several exposed heads, so damage inspection was a must. Nope. All good. Phew. Start paddling and notice something feels funny. Look down, and on the deck there's a gash across the width of the board. About half the segment has penetrated the glass. Great.
Almost flat and smooth/calm conditions, and I ding my board. That was irritating.
Posted at 1:45 PM
January 28, 2011 (Friday)
Regular. Thought it looked bigger. It was windy, so there was more wave action, definitely wind-driven. Then the wind backed off, and almost on cue so did the waves. Got pretty miserable at the end. Sunny but chilly. Not crowded.
Posted at 1:40 PM
January 27, 2011 (Thursday)
Regular again. Even smaller. Real bad. Some doable ones but quite awful. Windy. Sunny.
Posted at 1:59 PM
January 26, 2011 (Wednesday)
Regular. Super small. Not crowded then more people. Barely ride-able. My leg/hip has been bothering me, but today it felt almost normal. I'm thankful. Moderate trades, sunny.
Posted at 12:46 PM
January 25, 2011 (Tuesday)
BM's alone. Clean. Small. Started on the "outside"--if you could call it that--and soon found it was much better way in over the reef with all the coral heads. Smallish peak would come at slight west angle, hit the shallow shelf, then a nice wall would stand up and peel long enough to get in two or three bottom-top combos.
I had fun and was satisfied with the meager offerings. Beautiful, sunny day and some solitary solace. Good enough for me. (I don't ask for or expect much.)
Posted at 1:35 PM
January 24, 2011 (Monday)
Regular. South swell tomorrow? That's what I heard. Definitely looked slightly bigger from the car, but it was so-o disappointing. Not crowded with moderate trades and boring as heck.
Vid: Big wave swallows surfer.
Posted at 1:29 PM
January 23, 2011 (Sunday)
BM's with a friend. Small. Some okay ones, rights/lefts. Boring. One hour.
Afterward as we were walking on the beach, we heard a commotion, and a young guy was yelling at his girlfriend who was getting out of the water. As we got closer, we could hear him more clearly, "Shark, shark, shark!!!" We walked over and right up almost on the beach was a 5-foot shark. It was flailing and thrashing, obviously chasing something in the shallows. At first we couldn't make it out; what we saw was the rear fin not the dorsal, so it was long and pointy. We were confused but then figured out what we were seeing. Then we could see the complete body for several seconds. What made it scary was that the shark was exactly where the girl had been wading and where she exited the water. That was the most exciting happening of the "session."
Posted at 9:53 PM
January 20, 2011 (Thursday)
Bigger. BM's then M's then Regular. Not bad but weak and very soft.
Posted at 9:42 PM
January 19, 2011 (Wednesday)
Regular. Super small. About 45 minutes then enough. Pretty bad. Beautiful, sunny, trade wind day.
Posted at 9:14 PM
January 18, 2011 (Tuesday)
Regular. Nice. Westerly. One guy in the center, inside consistently snagging some rippable, lined-up, right bowl-ages. Not crowded.
Everyone must've been watching and thinking the same thing, because as soon as I got out there was a steady stream of people, and in no time it was crowded. I got my share and called it early. I was satisfied. Just good to be in the water.
Posted at 9:02 PM
January 16, 2011 (Sunday)
BM's. Nice conditions and strong westerly vector. A-framer, which loves the west, was pulling in a lot of wave action, but the form was mediocre to poor. And it was crowded. Regular was packed. M's wasn't really getting anything.
Was surprised, though, because there were some bigger sets that didn't show when I had been watching. In fact, there wasn't much of anything coming earlier before I paddled out. Caught handful then went in--quickie before work.
Posted at 11:53 PM
January 15, 2011 (Saturday)
Regular. Sunny and nice. Looked good from the cars, but one of the regulars coming in said it was crap. He was right. It wasn't as good as it had looked and was very disappointing. Not too crowded initially and then packed. Super crowded just before I went in. Plenty kooks.
Posted at 10:42 PM
January 13, 2011 (Thursday)
A-framer with a friend. Started off by having to deal with four kooks (three guys, one girl). So irritating: college-age, non-stop talking, everyone paddling for the same wave, getting in the way, laughing at everything--just loathsome. You know, having fun but not there to surf just to socialize? I love the A, that's a fact, but these kids were so-o irksome. Then their two buddies (a guy, another girl) paddle over from the Right-hander, and now we have more laughing and talking and sitting in the way and clogging the lineup, etc. Argh!
And to make it worse, my leg was really hurting; I was having a difficult time standing. Not a good day.
Posted at 11:33 PM
January 12, 2011 (Wednesday)
Regular. Onshore. Frustrating. Cloudy then sunny. Leg not bad. Caught handful. Satisfied because could actually stand and nice and sunny.
Posted at 9:15 PM
January 11, 2011 (Tuesday)
No surfing for four days. Gosh, that's an eternity.
A-framer with a friend. Although I've had several days to rest, my leg was only slightly better. Got some decent/fun lefts. Caught only a few rights, including my last one in. Was satisfied quickly considering it was a beautiful day with nice conditions (and been out of it so long), so water felt great.
I know this is corny, but I like it anyway: Prez advisers returning from Hawaii vacay with boards.
Posted at 7:37 PM
January 6, 2011 (Thursday)
Did the circuit: BM's (barely doable), M's (not even), and finish at Regular where it was crowded, but I managed to catch some on the far, far inside. Slight onshore. Beautiful, sunny day.
Posted at 8:18 PM
January 3, 2011 (Monday)
Oh, so that's how to fix it. My sore leg, that is. From prone move into low crouch then stand. That solved it, for now. Once I made that discovery, I was catching waves as I normally would and had a decent time without much of a hitch from my hip/thigh. Much improved form the previous several sessions.
And there were waves. Windy and empty. Classic wintry day at Regular. And just a handful of us, well, regulars. The die-hards. Some head-high. Blown and choppy.
Vid: Can i go next, please?
Posted at 9:16 PM
January 1, 2011 (Saturday)
Empty then packed. Wow, there have been waves for many days now, and while it's not great it's pretty good considering it's out of season. Leg is still bothering me but not as badly.
Posted at 11:45 PM