April 29, 2011 (Friday)
Regular with a friend then M's. Thought it would be pretty decent. Looked okay from the cars with some sets and people were catching fairly consistently and riding far. But when we got out, there were no waves. I quickly escaped solo to M's where it was small and barely breaking but satisfying, nonetheless.
Mindless entertainment: "It takes four minutes to disassemble and then reassemble a Jeep" (via Kottke).
Posted at 7:04 PM
April 28, 2011 (Thursday)
Just like yesterday but smaller. Same two idiots. WTF??? Is someone evil plotting against me?
Posted at 10:32 PM
April 27, 2011 (Wednesday)
Quite bad. Small and windy. Empty but two kooks (guy and girl) that were successful at irritating the heck out of me. Good job, f***ers.
Posted at 11:30 PM
April 26, 2011 (Tuesday)
M's alone then Regular. Worse than it looked. Caught only a few at M's. Regular was quite junk, but I was able to score a burst of fun ones on the inside end-corner.
Still getting acclimated to my new EPS board. It's extremely light (natch) and snappy. My hip was bothering me, but it wasn't too bad.
Beautiful day with warm water, sunny/breezy, not too crowded initially. There's something in the air. Summer's coming. It was my kind of day: small, windy, desolate. I love walking on an empty beach and looking to the water with nary a soul.
Posted at 9:24 PM
April 25, 2011 (Monday)
M's then Regular. At first pretty decent, albeit somewhat consistent. Tide level perfect. Then nothing. Satisfied.
Posted at 9:23 PM
April 24, 2011 (Sunday)
M's. With a longboard kook and then alone. Sloppy and weak but some doable ones and better than it looked.
Having trouble with my new board. It's an interesting issue that might be related to my hip problem. My foot placement is way off, and I'm standing too far on the tail after getting to my feet. Seems this is due to my having to transition very slowly to standing and the unfamiliarity with the new equipment. Delaying for just a second or two can make the difference between having a decent ride or not making the wave. Some "glitches" included being held up on the takeoff and veering away from the shoulder thereby floundering in the pocket, and getting stuck momentarily in the initial turn off the bottom and then getting chewed up by the whitewater. Basic kook action.
Posted at 7:18 PM
April 22, 2011 (Friday)
With a friend at BM's. At first, it didn't seem that good. So I went to M's while my friend stayed. That was a waste of time. I went back and finished at BM's. My friend was scoring some good lefts. I tried the rights but they sucked. So finally I switched to the lefts. Caught some pretty good ones. Felt awkward, though, on my new board. It's gonna take time.
You gotta watch this vid. It's insane. Especially for me since I'm afraid of heights. Also, I've hiked the spine of the Koolaus, and I was in disbelief seeing this guy run along the razorback of the peak. This is one of the craziest things I've ever seen on video.
Posted at 9:49 PM
April 21, 2011 (Thursday)
Some big sets. All spots looked sizeable. Started at M's. It was bombing initially. Using my new epoxy board and was struggling. Didn't get the hang of it until the end of the session. Very choppy and high-tide-ish. Finished at Regular where it was pretty good. Some nice sets that were doubling from the outside. Not crowded. In fact, just before going in there were only a few of us at the main peak. Heard yesterday was super nice.
Posted at 11:48 PM
April 19, 2011 (Tuesday)
M's going off. Very west. Frustrated again. Always in the wrong place but did get some good ones. In the end, had it to myself. Then finished at Regular.
Posted at 9:44 PM
April 18, 2011 (Monday)
Regular. Somewhat soft and choppy but good angle (west-y). Started on the outside and didn't start scoring until I settled on the inside at the end-corner. There were some good doubles going all the way through. Again, I was very frustrated. Seemed everyone else was getting the nice ones. Lots of irksome kooks, and I was always out of position. My hip was really hindering me too. Didn't have the luxury of trying to make up for lost opportunities due to time constraint.
Posted at 9:35 PM
April 17, 2011 (Sunday)
BM's, M's, BM's. Very soft and puffy. There's still energy. I continued my streak of bad sessions.
Posted at 10:27 PM
April 16, 2011 (Saturday)
Super frustrating at BM's. Always in the wrong place. The sets were breaking on the outside and the direction was good. Moved to M's then BM's then M's then BM's. Stayed out almost five hours in search of the elusive killer ride. I failed. Went in tired and defeated. What an awful session.
Posted at 11:26 PM
April 12, 2011 (Tuesday)
Regular. Didn't catch many waves. Was having super difficult time. Really struggling. Only a handful of us then crowded. Everyone was catching waves except me. I was so-o irked. Frustrated. Moved to M's, which wasn't doable, and then went back to finish at Regular at the end-corner on the inside. Got even more crowded. Took me a long time to get a decent one in.
Posted at 11:21 PM
April 11, 2011 (Monday)
Quick one at M's before work. Pretty bad. Finish at Regular, which was better. Windy and sloppy with very-close periods. You could get a good ride if you scored one that combined optimally to form a double.
Posted at 10:16 PM
April 9, 2011 (Saturday)
M's with a friend. Small, windy/choppy, and high-tide-ish. Barely doable but fairly consistent. Another friend joined and we all just relaxed and traded waves.
Posted at 11:13 PM
April 8, 2011 (Friday)
BM's then M's. BM's looked good but weird. The rights were breaking very wide and not in the usual bowl. Didn't try the lefts. At M's, it was fun but inconsistent. Some size. Low tide seemed to be a negative influence. Near the end of the session, it got very inconsistent. A few joiners then everyone went to Regular. Caught some okay ones but wasn't completely satisfied. Finished at Regular where the conditions were pretty good and not much of a crowd.
Posted at 10:02 PM
April 3, 2011 (Sunday)
Fun but time consuming. Started at BM's with a friend. I was struggling. Caught a few at BM's including a nice left that I blew. Then my friend went in, and I went to M's. There were some sets. Caught a good one then kooked on the next one, which was probably one of the biggest to come through. Then the sets just died. I went back to BM's. Caught a handful of rights and left then went back to M's then finished at Regular.
Posted at 8:54 PM
April 1, 2011 (Friday)
Regular with a friend. Will my hip be sore? I was preoccupied with this worry. It affected my surfing, making me tentative and cautious. But it was okay.
Nonetheless, I had a difficult time. Scored two immediately, and then couldn't get any. My friend didn't stay long. Tried to salvage by trying something different so moved to the inside. Started getting good ones at the end-corner that made my day. Eventually it cleared out and was just me and one of the regulars. My last two had me smiling as I went in. My hip wasn't in pain, and I was thankful.
Posted at 8:52 PM