May 31, 2011 (Tuesday)
M's solo. Windy and sloppy. Consistent but boring and unchallenging and just overall bleh. After about 1.5 hours, moved to Regular for an hour to finish. It was awful. Board working well and hip feeling better.
Posted at 10:17 PM
May 29, 2011 (Sunday)
Super fun at Regular. Started on the outside but soon dialed in on the middle and scored numerous killer walls. Windy and mushy but very rippable, and new EPS board working awesomely. Had two killer rides. Near the end of the session, though, lost my rhythm and positioning and drifted for a while. Really struggled for a decent last one. Best session in some time.
Posted at 10:49 PM
May 28, 2011 (Saturday)
Back to my life. Dose of reality. You know the feeling, right? Nice vacation with no cares or plans; and now work, schedules, deadlines. Yuck.
Wind swell with weak groundswell mix. Regular okay. Very challenging being in the right place. Ideal conditions for doubles. Snagged some. Empty then crowded. Stayed out 3.5 hours. Wow.
Posted at 7:04 PM
May 20, 2011 (Friday)
Headed to the mainland for some vacay. It's gonna be awesome. See you when I get back.
Posted at 10:26 AM
May 19, 2011 (Thursday)
M's alone. Bigger? Regular seemed like it. M's was inconsistent and breaking deep or wide, so it was tricky. But it was good enough for me with no crowd. Satisfied.
Posted at 9:43 PM
May 18, 2011 (Wednesday)
M's going off. I knew something was up when I saw all the cars overflowing the parking. Light winds. Super crowded everywhere. New EPS board kills on glassy/smooth surface conditions. Had one awesome ride. Did a mean straight-up in the pocket that totally made my session. Actually, it made my month. After that I was flying high. That's why we surf, my friends.
Posted at 11:28 PM
May 17, 2011 (Tuesday)
M's alone. Pretty bad. Small and windy but satisfied.
Posted at 7:07 PM
May 16, 2011 (Monday)
Start at Regular, finish at M's. Dismal. High tide, moderate trades, mushy, small, inconsistent.
Posted at 11:17 PM
May 15, 2011 (Sunday)
Bigger than expected at M's. Pass one of the regulars on the way out, and he says outside and inside are breaking and to stay on the outside. Said yesterday was bigger but today is hitting better. Take his advice but find instead that the inside works for me. Solo and then two couples of longie kooks invade. I get some okay ones. My last one is huge, the wave of the day, and I ride all the way to BM's. Not a great ride but nice way to end.
Posted at 8:52 PM
May 12, 2011 (Thursday)
Start at M's, finish at Regular. Small and very inconsistent, but it's empty and you know how I love my solitude. The water is warm and feels great. Don't get many rides, but that's okay.
Posted at 9:17 PM
May 10, 2011 (Tuesday)
M's. Not bad at first. Crowded. Everyone's sitting at the back bowl, and I hang at my usual place at the wide bowl. Fun but inconsistent; strong onshore wind.
Posted at 11:06 PM
May 9, 2011 (Monday)
M's. Just me then a longboard kook. Some fun ones but inconsistent and choppy. Messy. Smooth surface with light wind. Biggest in a while. Surprised.
Posted at 9:36 PM
May 5, 2011 (Thursday)
M's alone. Idiot kook joins, but I completely disregard. Friend paddles out to BM's, and I head over. He says the lefts are fun. I try the rights, and they suck. I give the lefts a go. Get a few, but overall I don't get much. Windy and sloppy. High tide-ish. The kook from M's is following me (probably because he's clueless and can't think for himself). My friend goes in, and I head back to M's (with kook in tow, of course). Catch a few then call it. The second time at M's salvaged an otherwise dismal session.
Posted at 10:48 PM
May 4, 2011 (Wednesday)
Started at BM's solo. Some okay lefts, but I got restless and headed to M's for the rights. Two irritating longies did their best to annoy. To my surprise, they didn't stay long, and soon I was alone. Found my place on the inside and started scoring. Fun. Good session.
Posted at 6:55 PM
May 3, 2011 (Tuesday)
Looked really good from the cars. Friend and I went to Regular. Empty but got crowded quickly. High tide, slopey, weak. And inconsistent. Needless to say, very frustrating. Got a few nice ones, but not many. At the end of the session, it got super irksome. Took at least an hour to get my last one. One frickin' irritating kook goofy-footer. New board working well.
Posted at 11:54 PM
May 1, 2011 (Sunday)
M's then Regular. Inconsistent. Looked nice and clean from the beach but got dismal fast. The high tide made it soft and choppy. Not crowded, which was nice, but ultimately the strong trades simply made it too sloppy. Heard the morning was good and that yesterday was bigger. How lovely.
Posted at 10:12 PM