June 29, 2011 (Wednesday)
Regular. Ho-hum. Do the inside and then finish outside. Windy then backing off. Boring.
Posted at 9:05 PM
June 28, 2011 (Tuesday)
Regular. High tide and weak. Classic end-corner bowl action. One of the regulars was ripping it then goes in to leave me to my own devices. Gets progressively less consistent. There's a guy catching a lot farther in, but I pay no mind and keep at it. I do score some fun ones. My last is particularly gratifying.
After by the car, I can see that it's really breaking far inside, more toward the middle, and that guy is scoring ride after ride and looks to be having a blast. His rides take him far, far in. The high tide is allowing him to go all the way. Punk! So that's where I should've been? I'm mad (in my mind, I can hear him laughing--it's obvious he's mocking me each time he gets a wave ;-)).
Posted at 8:02 PM
June 27, 2011 (Monday)
Me and two others. That's it--empty. I catch one on the outside and then struggle. Move inside and it sucks. Windy and sloppy. Getting worse too. Can't get last one. Frustrating. Argh!
Posted at 10:39 PM
June 26, 2011 (Sunday)
M's with another regular. Super frustrating. The other guy was catching stuff consistently, but I was always in the wrong place, or I would fall on the takeoff or do some other boneheaded move. Then he left, and soon thereafter I decided to cut my losses, too, and finish at Regular. That's when my session really started. Got some good ones and had fun. The wind and high tide had been ruining it earlier, but now the wind backed off and the tide dropped, which greatly improved the form.
Posted at 11:39 PM
June 24, 2011 (Friday)
Fun at M's. Initially another regular and me; then he went in because it was super inconsistent, and that's when I started scoring for over an hour. Then two other joiners, but by then I was satisfied. So ceded the main peak to them and moved to the inside and was scoring again, big time. Ride after ride on rippable bowl-ages. Board working extremely well.
Posted at 10:41 PM
June 23, 2011 (Thursday)
Big. Ugly. Regular was weird. Highly inconsistent and nothing between sets. Just some infrequent 3-4 footers. No one out. Did get some good ones, though, and overall not bad (especially since it was empty).
Posted at 9:13 PM
June 22, 2011 (Wednesday)
Big but doable. Manageable and not out of control. Lots of whitewater all along the coast. Monster sets at a nearby big-wave spot.
Tried M's first but too much size. Did the middle and inside of Regular. Everyone else was on the outside, but none were getting many rides or making it through the first few sections, so my friend and I stayed put. Not bad overall. Satisfied.
Posted at 10:06 PM
June 21, 2011 (Tuesday)
Super fun at M's alone. For the first hour, I scored. Hip wasn't bothering. Super good rides. Board working awesomely. After that, I was completely satisfied. Then two joiners. Best session in a while. Stoked!!!
Posted at 11:17 PM
June 19, 2011 (Sunday)
Fun at M's. Slightly bigger but not as much as expected. Windy and bumpy but some good ones. Hip wasn't hindering. Felt great. No errors until near the end of the session when I fell on two nice ones. Then last ride good all the way to BM's. Board working awesomely too.
Posted at 1:01 PM
June 17, 2011 (Friday)
Supposed to come up but did only slightly. Snagged a few at M's then finished on the inside at Regular. Pretty dismal and much more crowded than yesterday.
Posted at 1:01 PM
June 16, 2011 (Thursday)
Pretty awful but everyone said yesterday was worse. Small wind-drivel. Did the far inside, end-corner. Water was warm, and it was a beautiful, windy day. My last one was my best, so that was a nice way to end. Overall, a very relaxing day off.
Posted at 10:56 PM
June 14, 2011 (Tuesday)
Regular looked somewhat clean and bigger than expected, but it's crowded. Friend and I start paddling out, he's ahead of me, and I just couldn't do it. My crowd phobia is getting rather intense, so I make a detour and head to M's, which isn't breaking at all, and then to BM's. I snag a few then paddle back to M's then to regular to finish. It's frickin' dismal at Regular. Apparently it deteriorated to slope-y, blown-out ankle-snappers. The high tide was surely ruining it. Didn't help that there was no significant swell energy.
Posted at 8:50 PM
June 12, 2011 (Sunday)
M's alone then Regular to finish. Hard time getting last one at Regular (so typical for me). M's was better but very high tide and windy with lots of cross-chop.
Posted at 8:48 PM
June 10, 2011 (Friday)
Solo at M's while friend heads to Regular. M's is bombing: big, windy, and closing. Catch two then head to Regular. Overall the outside is junk, but there's a small window where we're catching some fun ones. Friend goes in and I struggle. Hip is bothering me and take-offs are difficult. Some good waves, in general, and my positioning was pretty good but the challenge is being able to get to my feet when it's late or the foam ball hits me from behind. Very surprised by the size.
Posted at 10:45 PM
June 9, 2011 (Thursday)
Super bad at M's. Regular even worse. Windy and super choppy.
Posted at 11:45 PM
June 7, 2011 (Tuesday)
Alone at M's. Boring. Inconsistent, choppy, weak. Bleh.
Posted at 11:42 PM
June 5, 2011 (Sunday)
Big. Some indicator spots are bombing. From the cars, it looked too big; but it wasn't.
Super fun at M's. I scored. Some of the largest sets did close, but there were ample in-betweeners that were funner than fun. New board working awesomely. Near the end of the session, I'm in a rush to head in for work and simply cannot get a good last one. You know how that goes. Finally I have to settle for anything piddly and rush to the beach. Best session in a while. Yeah!
Posted at 10:41 PM
June 2, 2011 (Thursday)
Super frustrating. Some outside stuff but couldn't snag. Very slope-y and doubling on inside but near-impossible to connect from further out. Finally move in and strong current keeps pushing me away. Had to be in the exact right place, otherwise couldn't stroke into bowl. Forms up but doesn't break. Best on inside, end-corner. By the time I figure it all out, the wind and tide are ruining it and sets die and kooks are circling like vultures. Argh!!!
Posted at 12:37 PM
June 1, 2011 (Wednesday)
Quite bad. Windy and sloppy. Smallish and difficult to ride. Slightly crowded given poor quality. Worst since Saturday.
Posted at 7:42 PM