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July 31, 2011 (Sunday)
Post-session
M's solo. Perfect angle but not enough size and tide too high. Actually, the tide wasn't as much an issue. Just needed more energy. Scored several good ones riding in through the coral heads on the far inside rather than across. Fun overall.
Posted at 10:55 PM
July 29, 2011 (Friday)
Post-session
M's. Bigger. Two friends already out but they don't stay long. Better once they leave. My first two rides are awesome. Pretty fun with lots of potential, but I did miss many good ones. Frustrating. It was breaking everywhere: deep bowl, wide bowl, inside, outside--argh! Perfect angle but not enough size and high tide making it a mess. Long waits then some good ones at the end of the session.
Posted at 11:50 PM
July 28, 2011 (Thursday)
Post-session
BM's alone then a friend joins briefly and leaves for Regular. I score. Pretty good and much better than expected, and the best BM's in a while. Small but rippable. Good angle and tide level. Back, inside bowl forming nicely.
Posted at 10:45 PM
July 27, 2011 (Wednesday)
Post-session
M's then Regular. Awful, awful, awful time. Catch almost nothing. I get skunked. One guy is scoring, and I hate him. Well, not really hate. More like despise.
Posted at 11:52 PM
July 26, 2011 (Tuesday)
Post-session
M's then Regular. Crowded. Manage to score some on the inside and outside. Kinda boring. New swell? Not really.
Posted at 11:36 PM
July 24, 2011 (Sunday)
Post-session
With a friend at M's. He starts scoring way inside at an obscure reef shelf that is very fickle and doesn't always show or lend itself to being ridden. I follow. He's having fun because it's a left and he's goofy (he, he--if you know what I mean). I'm having a ho-hum time. Can't stay long due to work. He continues catching waves non-stop and having a blast. I'm so happy for him. No, really, I am. Seriously. For real.
Posted at 6:57 PM
July 22, 2011 (Friday)
Post-session
M's. Very-long waits. Handful of rides. Miss some good ones. Get restless and disappointed and decided to finish at Regular. Not crowded initially. Very weak, close periods, and mushy. Got crowded. Finish on the inside, end-corner bowl. Long session. Overall boring with lots of sitting. But, again, a nice day off.
Posted at 8:08 PM
July 21, 2011 (Thursday)
Post-session
M's solo then friend join. High tide, windy, and messy but doable. On most days, identical conditions and form would result in waves not breaking at all. But today, small mushburgers seem to be feeling the reef more. Score many wedge-y bowl-ages but not a single good ride. All mediocre to poor. Very boring and bleh. Still awesome day off. Very relaxing and restful.
Posted at 9:23 PM
July 15, 2011 (Friday)
Post-session
M's with two irritating two young kids, a body boarder and shortboarder. Very west-y (so good angle) but disorganized. Morning sickness. Didn't stay long. Definitely new energy. Swell next two days.
Posted at 7:42 PM
July 14, 2011 (Thursday)
Post-session
Slope-y, weak, inconsistent M's walls. Brief foray to BM's then back to M's then finish at Regular. Relaxing but boring session. Good day off, nonetheless.
Posted at 11:12 PM
July 13, 2011 (Wednesday)
Post-session
Regular. Much better conditions and form. Some surprising outside gems with long walls that lined up and peeled all the way. Of course, I wasn't able to snag any of those and was reduced to watching from the shoulder as the guys in the right place happened to "stumble" upon those nuggets. Swell tomorrow?
Posted at 10:11 PM
July 12, 2011 (Tuesday)
Post-session
Regular looked fun. Opted for M's. Long, long waits and barely caught any but did get some okay ones. BM's looked good, and a guy and girl seemed to be scoring; but once I got a few at M's, I decided to stay. Very high tide, and my instinct always is to paddle out when I see an approaching set, but I missed many because I got excited and overreacted and paddled too far. The back-bowl was teasing with some occasional nice ones. The rides I did get went all the way through to the inside past the rocks. My last was awesome. Satisfied. Relaxing and nice day off.
Posted at 9:59 PM
July 11, 2011 (Monday)
Post-session
Fun at M's with a friend. West angle and windy. Looked real bad but it was far better than expected. Low tide and very doable. Small with some sneaker head-high surprises. One wave to BM's made my day, plenty turns.
Posted at 9:55 PM
July 10, 2011 (Sunday)
Post-session
M's alone then two bodyboarders then finish solo. Very slow going. High tide, soft, and painfully inconsistent. Longs waits with slope-y, pillowy walls. Some fun ones interspersed with lots of sitting. Long session but didn't get worn down, tired, or hungry. Had lots of energy and felt great. Very relaxed and unhurried. Hip was pretty good too. Overall nice time. Awesome day off.
Posted at 12:13 PM
July 8, 2011 (Friday)
Post-session
New swell. Much bigger but very windy and messy, weak, and sloppy. Empty. Just me at end. Some okay ones and then nothing.
Posted at 7:51 PM
July 7, 2011 (Thursday)
Post-session
M's to start. Nothing. Move to Regular. Windy and sloppy with some occasional head-high. Kinda slope-y but takeoffs are challenging. Practically nothing on the outside. Out of desperation, move to inside and start scoring some decent, marginally-acceptable wind-slop bowls. Get a bunch near the end of the session but pretty disappointing considering 2.5 hours in the water. At least it was empty.
Posted at 8:47 PM
July 5, 2011 (Tuesday)
Post-session
M's. Solo then one joiner then just me. Very inconsistent. High tide, slope-y, and mushy. Good angle. Bigger than my previous session and showing signs of new energy. Long waits. Somewhat satisfied.
Posted at 9:35 PM
July 3, 2011 (Sunday)
Post-session
BM's, M's, Regular. Frickin' awful.
Posted at 10:35 PM
July 1, 2011 (Friday)
Post-session
Long session at Regular. Actually wanted to do BM's, but one of the local pros was there solo killing it.
Anyway, looked much bigger from the car. Natch. It was quite dismal. Initially empty then packed. Clogged with kooks. Moved to the inside and traded waves with some of the regulars. That's when I had the most fun. High tide was allowing us to ride quite far. Eventually the sets died and waves became painfully infrequent. Difficult to get a good last one. Finally settled for a mushburger and called it. Highly disappointing but nonetheless satisfied.
Drinkers: Beer can surfboard.
Posted at 9:26 PM