Extempore

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August 31, 2011 (Wednesday)

Post-session

Might be slightly smaller but still bombing. Some guys doing the channel at the Right-hander, and it actually looks pretty darn good. Everywhere else is out of control. We do Thimble again and flirt briefly with Regular. Not that much fun. Monday was my best.

So this is the massive swell they were surfing in Tahiti? Saw some of it on TV where they were towing-in at Teahupoo.

BTW: The Inflatable Wetsuit Designed to Save Lives in Big Waves.

Posted at 10:25 PM