September 30, 2011 (Friday)
Quick one before work solo at BM's. Super tiny. Groveled for a handful then paddled to Regular. It wasn't as crowded as it had appeared earlier, full of kooks, some so-so ones coming in. Was it better than BM's? Yeah, guess it was: slightly bigger, longer walls, better form. Was kinda bummed. Whatever.
Posted at 9:59 PM
September 28, 2011 (Wednesday)
Regular. Smaller than small. Awful.
Posted at 11:17 PM
September 27, 2011 (Tuesday)
Super small at Regular, late afternoon after work. Did the end-corner on the far inside. Get handful then call it. Hot/sunny, warm water: refreshing.
Posted at 10:16 PM
September 25, 2011 (Sunday)
A-framer with a friend. Small and mushy. Onshore wind. Get some rights that trail off and die quickly in the deeper water. Some okay lefts. Weak. Lots of cross-chop.
Posted at 11:13 PM
September 24, 2011 (Saturday)
Brief one before work. M's solo. Small and clean. Barely catchable. Surprised still some wave action. Expected it to be near-flat. Long waits. Get a handful. Paddle to Regular to finish.
Posted at 10:06 PM
September 22, 2011 (Thursday)
Was headed to Regular but there was a constant stream of after-work people paddling out so decided to walk down the beach to BM's or M's. As I made my way out, I watched and opted for M's. It was a good choice and surprisingly decent.
Had it solo and then a guy and girl joined for a bit then had it to myself. Lots of small, insider west bowl-ages. Waited farther out and scored the best and biggest, about chest- to almost head-high. The waits were long but the rides fun. Kinda slope-y and barely feeling the reef but going far. Each ride allowed for about 4-5 turns and perhaps one lipper. Somewhat clean but the tide was kinda high. Completely satisfied.
It was nice to be in the water after work on a hot, sunny day. Leg/hip less sore and feeling much better than yesterday. Made me happy that not only could get in the water at the end of the day but could surf relatively "normally."
Posted at 8:03 PM
September 21, 2011 (Wednesday)
Late afternoon. M's alone. Leg and hip super sore. Aching all over from work. Even cramps in my hands. Catch two then almost head to Regular. Watch it from the channel then realize it's too crowded with not enough waves so head back to M's. Get two more then head in. Satisfied for an unexpected after-work session.
Posted at 11:23 PM
September 19, 2011 (Monday)
Regular. Three set-waves immediately then nada. Very disappointing. Think it was real good earlier before we arrived because when we pulled up it looked like it was going off. But it degraded quickly. Empty then packed once we got out (natch). Persisted on the outside once I got a taste of those initial sets, then finally gave up and moved to the middle and scored several, then finished on the inside and ended up groveling. Shoulder gradually feeling much better.
Posted at 11:20 PM
September 18, 2011 (Sunday)
Circuit training: BM's (nothing), M's (small, slow, infrequent, soft), Regular (some surprising sets but overall junk). Not too crowded.
The season is winding down. This is probably my favorite time of the year, the cusps before and after summer, when the waves get sparse and the crowds move to more favorable climes (a.k.a., the North Shore). I love walking on a desolate beach and surfing empty, albeit crappy, ankle-snappers, just because I do so value the solitude.
Posted at 8:08 PM
September 17, 2011 (Saturday)
M's alone. Soft and choppy. Infrequent. Caught several mediocre peaks. Just took it easy with my sore shoulder and wasn't paddling hard or rushing around. If the wave was easy to catch, then I'd get it; otherwise, I'd take a few strokes and then back off if it required too much exertion. My shoulder is much better. Anyway, finished at Regular with a few. Not crowded.
Posted at 11:20 PM
September 16, 2011 (Friday)
M's. One kook initially then alone. Struggling at first. There was stuff, but it was difficult to be in the right place, as it was breaking everywhere but infrequently. Tried my best to get a read. Proved very elusive. Outside, deep, wide...argh. Finally I moved inside, and that was the optimum position to snag the majority of what passed through. Then a smallish surge of sets kept me occupied for a while. A friend joined and we traded west-y bowl-ages. Then it kinda died and got real soft and choppy from the tide and wind. We both paddled to Regular to finish. Shoulder was feeling much better. Overall, better than expected and satisfying.
Afterward, friend and I were talking about the latest Red Bull commercial of the guy snowboarding. I think it's radical. Then he told me about one I'd never seen. The way he described it, I couldn't wait to search for it. It's the motorcycle jump at Caesars Palace: "Robbie Maddison's jump..." (There's a surfing one too.)
Posted at 10:58 PM
September 15, 2011 (Thursday)
Wow, my shoulder feels much, much better. Still some discomfort but not nearly as bad as the previous three to four weeks. Did BM's solo then got restless and moved to M's. Had it to myself and immediately scored some mediocre but fun waist- to head-high, soft rollers, all-shoulder with no wall but just kept cutting back to the foam and riding as far as possible. Definitely satisfying and better than dealing with all the kooks (including an SUP) at Regular. There's still energy, and some rare over-headers made their appearance. Nice, relaxing, stress-free session.
Posted at 11:34 PM
September 14, 2011 (Wednesday)
A-framer again with a friend. Surprised that the size hasn't dropped a lot. Still some decent ones. But kinda east-y again so not the best for the A. It actually looked good from the cars, and it wasn't bad initially and then gradually got weaker and smaller. Didn't really get a good ride.
Shoulder is sore but not as bad as the previous week. Think laying off on it has made a difference. Today I babied it and didn't stay long. Probably should've rested completely but oh well.
Posted at 10:47 PM
September 13, 2011 (Tuesday)
A-framer with a friend. Haven't done the A in a long time. Direction was less than ideal--slightly too much east--but it was still decent. Some occasional west-y ones did come in. My last was my best and was a great way to end (I was grinning on the way in).
I was having difficulty taking off due to my hip, but the real concern was my shoulder. It's actually better, and I ascribe that to taking it "easy" yesterday. Although I did surf, I wasn't paddling hard and really laid off of it as much as possible by transferring more of the propulsion duty to the other. And today it was less stiff/painful. That was a good sign and a welcomed development.
Did the same thing today by throttling back on the paddling. Attempted only waves that required a few strokes and didn't rush at all when paddling back out or to duck waves. Additionally, cut it short and stayed out about an hour (or less).
Posted at 11:05 PM
September 12, 2011 (Monday)
M's alone then a friend joined. Much smaller and weak/slope-y and choppy from the tide and wind.
My shoulder was very painful. Couldn't stroke with much power and tried to take it easy. Still managed to catch several west-angled bowls. Most were mediocre, and I didn't have any memorable or noteworthy rides.
Posted at 10:58 PM
September 11, 2011 (Sunday)
M's was going off again. For real. Just bombing. The back bowl looked like Sunset. Guys were getting pitched. I parked at my usual wide-bowl, and just like yesterday I scored some seriously-awesome rides. It was very consistent at all peaks.
It was the best just before I went in. By then, most everyone who had been at the deeper peak had gone, and there were only two guys there and me at my own peak. I simply sat and waited, and by that I mean paddling back out and sitting up to pause for a few seconds and spinning right around and taking off on another nicely-formed, open-faced tapered wall with multiple sections that was taking me all the way to...wherever. If I needed to rest, then I would simply pass up a half dozen killer waves to go unridden.
I'm not sure how long I was out, but I was supremely tired again just before calling it. My shoulder was very painful. I told myself I would take the next good one in, and almost immediately I caught my best ride of the day all the way across and through to the inside of BM's and ended about 20 yards from the beach. That is one long mutha ride, just to let you know. And I thought, "I couldn't have asked for a more perfect, fitting way to end this fabulous session." But immediately came the antithetical thought: "That was so good, why not go back for more. Just one. Or two." I sat and drifted for about 10 minutes as close-out sets broke far out and washed through. Finally, I decided to give it another go. Barely able to paddle, I had to battle the inside and all the big outside sets. I made it back and caught two more and then went to regular for a last one to belly-board in.
My shoulder was hurting bad. I could barely paddle. Every stroke caused me to wince. The pain was far worse that yesterday's. This really concerns me.
Anyway, I'll close with this: Wow, what a day. Beautiful, un-crowded waves that wouldn't stop. The two best days of the year for me, akin to last year's Three Days of Setember.
Posted at 11:29 PM
September 10, 2011 (Saturday)
Going off! Solid sets. Did M's alone and scored, big time. Consistent, lined-up, rippable, west-angled walls. Every peak was working, and the choices were endless. Missed a lot of really nice waves and caught a lot too. Surfed pretty much non-stop for three hours, and I'm burnt. Definitely one of the best sessions of the season.
Not sure why, but it was empty everywhere, even at places that normally would be packed on a sunny Saturday with a strong south swell. Someone said we're getting a reinforcement tomorrow.
Life is great. I'm fortunate to be a surfer.
(Just as a footnote. My shoulder was really hurting just before I went in. I was really tired, and the discomfort was hindering my paddling. It's starting to worry me. Hope it doesn't develop into something that will keep me out of the water.)
Posted at 11:41 PM
September 9, 2011 (Friday)
Bigger with new energy. M's alone. Slow start then snagged a handful of fun SW bowls (strong west angle). Choppy with lots of water. The waves were "fat," that is, they were roll-y with a soft punch. Lots of water. Takeoffs were challenging. There was a nice cluster of sets, and then it died. I was lucky and scored it during that small window. Satisfied.
Posted at 11:33 PM
September 8, 2011 (Thursday)
It's slightly bigger. Light-moderate E-SE wind and mushy. Heard this morning was really nice and packed.
Did BM's solo again. It was much better than yesterday--more size, more consistent. Was able to keep myself occupied without sitting too long. Had many fun rides.
Swell tomorrow? Already there's a high surf advisory.
Posted at 10:39 PM
September 7, 2011 (Wednesday)
Definitely some new energy and slightly bigger. Winds E-SE, so form was mushy. Lots of people at Regular. My friend went there while I opted for some solo BM's action. There was no way I was gonna tolerate all those kooks (most of them on longboards ) at Regular.
Although it looked awful, BM's was actually fun and much better than expected. Fairly consistent and slashable. Caught a bunch of rippable knee- to waist-high mushburgers that satisfied me. Tide level kept the coral heads and inside reef shelf nicely covered, so rides were longish. Just when I was ready to call it, a guy and girl joined, and I tried my best to snag a decent last one and get out of their way. I ended up staying another half hour, or so (you know how that goes, right?).
Posted at 10:08 PM
September 6, 2011 (Tuesday)
Pathetically small, inconsistent, and weak at Regular. Handful of, well, regulars kicking back and relaxing. Very lazy afternoon. Sunny. Warm water. The dog days of summer... (We all know October is historically the hottest month, so get ready for the more heat.)
Posted at 11:17 PM
September 5, 2011 (Monday)
Small. Did the A-framer with a friend. Just the two of us.
At first it was somewhat clean. We started catching small bowl-ages immediately. Then the wind strengthened and shifted to a more SE direction and blew out everything. Got really messy and choppy. Kinda ugly, actually. Then it weakened and settled down and got quite nice. My friend was scoring lined-up ankle-snappers on the far inside as I persisted farther out waiting for bigger ones that never came.
I was also struggling because the waves were so small, and it's difficult for me to stand due to my arthritic hip. This was compounded by going backside. So I fell trying to get to my feet on some really tiny wavelets. My friend was laughing, but it was frustrating for me. When the waves are so small, it forces me to pause in a low crouch to get to my feet rather than the board simply falling away as it does on bigger waves, and my hip locks with pain and discomfort.
There's another regular with the same problem. He's been riding a body-board recently, and the other day I asked him why he doesn't shortboard anymore. He told me he has a bad hip--osteoarthritis--and needs a hip replacement. I couldn't believe it. "Me too," I exclaimed. Wow, someone with the same issue. It made me thankful that I can still surf. He's completely unable to get to his feet on a surfboard. I felt bad for him. He's an avid surfer. We're both about the same age, and shouldn't be suffering from arthritis yet. He's doing exactly what I would do, which is body-board and get in the water. If I couldn't board surf I'd be really, really, REALLY depressed. It would be life-changing.
OMG: "Surfer survives shark scare." This one's kinda too close to home.
Posted at 10:56 PM
September 4, 2011 (Sunday)
Well it's down now. About knee- to chest-high. Somewhat nice conditions and form. Not crowded considering it's Labor Day weekend.
Did BM's with a friend, and we scored some fun ones. Had it to ourselves. Good tide level that covered the coral heads just enough. I scored some rippable right bowl-ages. We finished with a last one at M's.
Beautiful day. Relaxing session. Satisfied.
Posted at 4:43 PM
September 3, 2011 (Saturday)
Surprised by the longevity of the swell. Yes, it's smaller; but it's not dropping as fast as one would expect, and there's still residual energy and fun remnants.
Did M's solo and caught many rippable walls. Missed several outside sets, too, which was disappointing. Finished at Regular where it seemed pretty good, as well. But definitely M's was better with more size and juice (and empty).
Beautiful day. Relaxing session. Couldn't ask for more.
Posted at 10:32 PM
September 2, 2011 (Friday)
Didn't drop as much as expected. Still some decent ones but definitely smaller.
Did M's alone. Caught a bunch that were quite decent. Somewhat disorganized and choppy. But I achieved my goal of having an uncomplicated and satisfying session. Finished at Regular, and it seemed pretty darn good. Think it was getting better as the strong trades slacked off significantly.
Posted at 6:17 PM
So expecting it to be smaller. Seems it's quite windy--thought the NWS was forecasting light/variable winds, but that might've been for Sat/Sun. Looking forward to a relaxing and non-stressful session in mediocre surf with marginal conditions and sub-par form (the operative word being relaxing).
Posted at 12:05 PM
September 1, 2011 (Thursday)
Much smaller. Heard it was good this morning. Did Regular with a friend. It was inconsistent and sloppy. Very disappointing, and I'm sure a lot of people felt the same. After all, we've been waiting for it to drop so we can do our thing. Instead, we had to settle for disorganized mush with lots of chop. Although, I did catch a handful of really good ones that made my day. And it wasn't crowded.
Posted at 6:20 PM