January 31, 2012 (Tuesday)
Less wind=less waves=more people. Everyone in the middle. I parked at the end-corner with a bunch of kooks. One longboard girl with moderate skill and a photog. She didn't look familiar and definitely wasn't a pro. Nice to have your personal paparazzi. Boring session. Drifted to the middle and finished on the far inside.
Posted at 11:11 PM
January 30, 2012 (Monday)
Windy and east-y. Inside, end-corner solo then two regulars join. Somewhat doable but not quite enough energy for classic end-corner. Scored some fun ones, though, on far inside. Not crowded. Ended up staying way longer than intended trying to get a decent last one.
Posted at 11:49 PM
January 29, 2012 (Sunday)
Windy. Almost classic end-corner bowl action. Good east angle but a bit too dribble-y. Great potential for wind-swell. Everyone in the middle and only me and one other.
Posted at 10:48 PM
January 28, 2012 (Saturday)
Regular. Completely different. Moderate to strong trades are back. Small and very mushy and sloppy. Not crowded. Beautiful day. No west wrap from W-NW swell.
Posted at 10:33 PM
January 27, 2012 (Friday)
Regular. Much nicer. Light variable winds, somewhat clean conditions with decent form. But weak and smallish. Lots of doable ones, though, especially on the inside. I scored continually. Many doubles. Everyone else was on the outside and they weren't getting much. Totally satisfied.
Posted at 11:14 PM
January 26, 2012 (Thursday)
With a friend at Regular. Moderate onshore and choppy, sloppy, and disorganized but doable. Empty.
The big story, however, was yesterday. Someone told me they were at the Right-hander for five hours. Another told me they were getting pitched on the takeoffs. Said there were some mean ones coming in. That's how it had looked to me.
Posted at 8:49 PM
January 25, 2012 (Wednesday)
Surprisingly bigger. Wow, why? Expected smaller. So apparently the morning was good with clean conditions and excellent form with 4s on the sets.
Now the onshore wind was on it, S-SE. Not too crowded. All spots nice. Opt for Regular. Catch plenty. Nothing much more to tell.
Afterward, watching from the cars, the Right-hander is going off. Big, solid wedge-y bowls with very-challenging takeoffs. Shocking.
Posted at 11:01 PM
January 24, 2012 (Tuesday)
Same conditions/form but smaller and not crowded. Relaxing and no stress but boring. Snagged quite a bit on the inside while everyone else waited on the outside and sat like buoys. Didn't stay long. Satisfied. Another nice day.
Posted at 11:07 PM
January 23, 2012 (Monday)
Beautiful, sunny. All spots looking nice. Light onshore wind, smooth conditions, good form.
Went out to Regular. Very inconsistent on the outside. Didn't get beyond the middle area, as there were many waves on the inside. Kept catching and paddling with no opportunity to go farther out. I stayed very busy. Quite crowded with many regulars and numerous kooks and longies.
Afterward, the A-framer looked good with a nice west-angle pocket at the main bowl and three guys. It was definitely bombing earlier when I was watching from the car. Heard the morning was going off everywhere.
Posted at 9:36 PM
January 22, 2012 (Sunday)
Bigger. Light onshore and mushy but fun. Lots of doubly waves. Lots of re-forms. Just like the previous days: everyone too far out, and I score. Nice, sunny day. Not crowded. Dat's how we do.
Posted at 11:48 PM
January 21, 2012 (Saturday)
Good. Windy and not crowded. I was scoring on the inside. Really fun. Again, everyone was too far out. Lots of steep bowls. Very doubly and reforming a few times and lined-up all the way. Much bigger than yesterday. The guys on the outside were getting diddly. Definite groundswell and not just wind-driven.
Posted at 11:18 PM
January 20, 2012 (Friday)
Nice. Lighter winds and new southern energy. Some head-high. Inconsistent but some fun ones, especially in the middle and inside areas. Caught a lot pretty much non-stop. Everyone was too far on the outside. Many were bowl-y and doubly and lined up all the way. Satisfied after half an hour. Stayed for about an hour. Since I'm belly-boarding (due to strained tendon in knee), I catch many more than standing and do more paddling in a shorter amount of time.
Posted at 10:31 PM
January 19, 2012 (Thursday)
Regular. Smaller but better form. Lighter winds, still onshore. I scored plenty. The Right-hander looked awesome. East direction with big wedges.
Posted at 10:24 PM
January 18, 2012 (Wednesday)
Very messy. Moderate onshore winds. Some size but very close periods. Crowded. Stayed on the inside and scored plenty. Lots of paddling with non-stop ducking to get back out. Classic wind swell.
Posted at 11:21 PM
January 17, 2012 (Tuesday)
About the same but slightly smaller and not nearly as crowded. Stayed on the far inside. Caught a lot.
Posted at 11:49 PM
January 16, 2012 (Monday)
With a friend at Regular. Somewhat strong onshore wind (straight south). Crappy and crowded (why?). Caught a bunch like yesterday on the inside middle then went in.
Posted at 11:15 PM
January 15, 2012 (Sunday)
With a friend at Regular. Didn't look too bad from the cars, even with the onshore wind. Lots of wave action and form definitely seemed better than many an onshore day. Wind wasn't too strong, light-moderate. Very-close period wind swell. Alas, not as it had looked. Still quite crappy. And it was crowded. Caught a bunch on the inside in the middle. Most waves were combining and cancelling so had to be in the right place, otherwise it was just a slope that wouldn't break.
Posted at 10:02 PM
January 14, 2012 (Saturday)
A-framer solo. Low tide, light SW wind. Actually some fun ones. Regular was super small and semi-clean.
Vid: Great White shark off Oahu coast (yes, this is how locals talk).
Posted at 11:37 PM
January 13, 2012 (Friday)
F-13th. Regular with a friend. Small, west-y, SW winds, and packed. Lots of beginners on longboards. Pretty bad. Stayed at the inside, end-corner and caught a bunch.
Posted at 10:22 PM
January 12, 2012 (Thursday)
A-framer looked good. The west-y direction was ideal. Winds were light E-SE, so slightly onshore, and again a good variable for the A. Alas, not as fun as it looked. Classic situation of too much west, so lots of worble and cross-chop. Two friends were on the outside, and i went to the far inside and wide to park at a shallow shelf. Got some but kinda ho-hum.
Posted at 11:09 PM
January 11, 2012 (Wednesday)
Regular with a friend. Slightly better conditions/form, lighter wind. West-y. Seemed smaller but everyone thought it was bigger.
Posted at 10:42 PM
January 10, 2012 (Tuesday)
Better conditions/form, slightly bigger. Not too crowded initially then plenty all at once. Same routine: belly-boarding end-corner and snag non-stop for slightly less than an hour.
Posted at 11:20 PM
January 9, 2012 (Monday)
Really bad. Small, sloppy, crowded. Did the inside, end-corner for about a half-hour.
Posted at 9:52 PM
January 8, 2012 (Sunday)
Regular with a friend. Smaller but okay. We almost went to the A-framer instead but decided against. Heard the morning was very clean and packed, but now the moderate E-SE winds were making it mushy; which, unfortunately, didn't dissuade anyone, and it was still crowded. Plenty kooks and jerks. I catch a bunch then go in. Very ho-hum.
Posted at 10:04 PM
January 7, 2012 (Saturday)
Slightly smaller but still fun, I thought. Everyone else said it was crap. Got crowded fast. Caught a bunch. Satisfied. Still not standing, and my knee is still sore.
Posted at 10:04 PM
January 6, 2012 (Friday)
With a friend at Regular. Smaller but still fun. Stayed on the inside, end-corner (surprise!). Quite empty then eventually crowded.
Posted at 11:55 PM
January 5, 2012 (Thursday)
Regular with a friend. Biggest in a while. Not too windy but trades are back. Somewhat crowded. Nothing special but everyone jonesing. Parked at the inside, end-corner. Got a bunch then called it.
Posted at 11:03 PM
January 4, 2012 (Wednesday)
Regular with a friend. Pretty bad but twice the size with pronounced west angle (must be west wrap NOT north). Crowded mostly in the middle. Stayed on the fringe at the end-corner. Didn't get many, which speaks to the infrequency of wave action because I was only belly-boarding and could catch anything that presented itself.
Posted at 10:51 PM
January 3, 2012 (Tuesday)
A-framer solo. Smallest in a while. Pretty much flat to shin-high. Onshore and mushy. Caught one then paddled to the Right-hander and kept going to the channel and made a left turn toward shore. Yep. Basically just went for a paddle. Beautiful day. No waves.
Posted at 10:53 PM
January 2, 2012 (Monday)
A-framer with a friend. Not bad considering it was super small and everywhere else was crowded with longies. Barely doable but glassy/smooth with light onshore breeze. Just us then two more joined. After an hour, I was done. My friend stayed out.
Posted at 11:18 PM
January 1, 2012 (Sunday)
Regular with a friend. Really bad. Same size (super small) and moderate E-SE onshore wind made it barely doable. Hardly caught anything. Crowded in the middle. Beautiful day otherwise. Happy New Year.
Posted at 10:12 PM