May 11, 2008 (Sunday)
Session Recap
Pretty much the same but fun. Not crowded at first then Kook Kingdom.
Posted at 1:04 PM
May 10, 2008 (Saturday)
Session Recap
Slightly bigger. Close periods meant lots of cancelling and flattening with the occasional combination forming a good double. Had a really nice head-high one that made my day.
Posted at 8:41 PM
May 9, 2008 (Friday)
Session Recap
Windy and crappy. Empty. Right-hander looked good.
Posted at 3:54 PM
May 8, 2008 (Thursday)
Session Recap
Gutless wind swell with morning sickness. Yuck.
Posted at 10:43 AM
May 7, 2008 (Wednesday)
Session Recap
Looked okay from the beach, but it sucked bad. Really weak, mushy, and slope-y.
Posted at 8:07 PM
May 6, 2008 (Tuesday)
Session Recap
About the same size with lots of wave action but sloppy. End-corner bowl was doable. Empty.
Posted at 5:58 PM
May 5, 2008 (Monday)
Session Recap
About 1-2, windy/sloppy, and fun. Empty.
Posted at 2:43 PM
May 4, 2008 (Sunday)
Session Recap
Seems like some new energy. Went to Ms+Bs, and it was fun. Had it to myself. The high tide allowed me to ride all the way through over the usually shallow reef (with exposed coral heads), and it was fairly lined up and decently formed. I was surprised by some of the doubles that were coming in from the outside. Definitely the best I've experienced it since I started surfing there about a month ago.
Posted at 8:37 PM
May 3, 2008 (Saturday)
Session Recap
Still some residual energy (SW). Surfed two spots. Crowded everywhere else.
Posted at 2:03 PM
May 2, 2008 (Friday)
Session Recap
Might be bigger, but it's very sloppy/disorganized and weak. Jumped in for a quick late one after work.
Posted at 10:31 PM
May 1, 2008 (Thursday)
Session Recap
It dropped a lot. Windy/sloppy.
Posted at 7:25 PM
April 30, 2008 (Wednesday)
Session Recap
Slightly bigger. Windy and sloppy but doable. Not crowded.
Posted at 10:27 AM
April 29, 2008 (Tuesday)
Session Recap
Solid 1-3 and west-y. Empty.
Posted at 1:10 PM
April 28, 2008 (Monday)
Session Recap
Bigger but just like wind swell: sloppy/disorganized and weak without push. Not crowded.
Posted at 1:20 PM
April 27, 2008 (Sunday)
Session Recap
Small and windy. Start the hype machine: next south swell will be huge--above advisory level?
Posted at 9:12 PM
April 26, 2008 (Saturday)
Session Recap
Might be bigger--not sure. Not too crowded. Trades are back.
Went out to Bs+Ms=Ws. Just me. Then paddled to Ms. Caught a few decent ones. By then, the wind had shifted from light E-SE to moderate ENE.
Couldn't believe the haze. It was very thick--probably the worst I've ever seen it.
Posted at 5:14 PM
April 25, 2008 (Friday)
Session Recap
Slightly bigger and packed. And I thought yesterday was crowded.
Got off work late this afternoon. The weather was gloomy. Thick haze and clouds with light rain. As I was sitting in bumber-to-bumber traffic on the freeway, I was thinking it was a good day to take a break. My back and hip were tight and sore. My feet were aching from standing and walking for ten hours. I was beat. That's when I decided there would be no surfing for me today. Eat dinner, lie down.
Of course, once I was home the clouds broke and I suddenly felt compelled to drive to the beach. Hadn't been in the apartment more than five minutes when I realized I had to go surfing.
It was really, really crowded. Practically no parking. Nice conditions and form. Paddled out and caught a handful, maybe a half dozen, then went in. I just wanted to get into the water. It didn't bother me that there were so many people because that's what I expected given all the variables and time of day. And although there were a lot of guys, everyone was mellow.
Posted at 10:59 PM
April 24, 2008 (Thursday)
Session Recap
Small and Kook City. You irritating Blue Crush girls and wannabes on longboards...i love you all. Hope to see you tomorrow. Let's all meet in the lineup and sit in a circle. Please?
Posted at 8:31 PM
April 23, 2008 (Wednesday)
Session Recap
Small and crowded so went out to Bs+Ms=Ws (don't try and figure it out).
Posted at 6:12 PM
April 22, 2008 (Tuesday)
Session Recap
Slightly bigger, lighter wind. Crowded--local pros.
Posted at 8:03 PM
April 21, 2008 (Monday)
Session Recap
Back to normal: small, windy/sloppy. But I had fun. My last one in was great.
Posted at 7:34 PM
April 20, 2008 (Sunday)
Session Recap
We did the A-framer, just to mix things up. It was junk--not enough west, and windy/sloppy.
I didn't care much: get in the water, paddle around, get some sun. I wasn't into it. Had the waves been good, sure, I would've been enthused. As it was, I was there but not there. Think everyone's feeling the same because it was empty.
Still not 100%. The last of the cold is leaving, but I still feel lethargic, and my throat/sinus isn't cleared yet.
Starting a new job Wednesday. It's been a long haul without work, and I don't know how the heck I've survived all these months without income. I'm excited. But the vacation is over. Time to earn my keep.
My schedule will vary. There will be some early morning sessions and late afternoon too. Will try to maintain my daily surf regimen. That will be the hardest part, the changing work hours.
Posted at 7:45 PM
