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September 14, 2005 (Wednesday)

Almost Here

Yesterday was disappointing. Not so much because it wasn't big, about 1-2 with some 3s, but rather because the form was so bad.

The swell is close. It's interesting looking at this saved image of the period map that the longer-period waves in the leading edge heading to us are getting clipped. Whereas, the maroonish-purplish SW flow moving toward the US mainland remains intact. That always happens; that is, when it gets near and is met by the NE trade wind vectors, there seems to be some kind of submergence (I don’t know what else to call it--how about subduction?). Anyway, another striking feature is the straight-south direction.

Posted at 12:20 AM