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September 20, 2006 (Wednesday)
Post-session
About the same size. Same conditions and form--windy and sloppy.
Two big waves broke right in front of me. On one of them (can't remember if it was the first or second), when I tried to duck, my board was ripped from my hands, and as I was getting twirled and pummeled my board got mixed in with me, and I kicked it with my leg and put two cracks in the rail. My new board.
And don’t laugh, but I got held down so long on the second one that I thought I was going to black out. I know this is only Town, so that says more about me than anything else. I was tuckered from the first one, and then the next one just did me in. Kinda scary for me when I think about it because, as I said, this is only Town. After that, I didn't feel like surfing anymore because my board was damaged, and I was tired.
Posted at 1:03 PM