« Post-session | Main | Post-session »
December 12, 2006 (Tuesday)
Post-session
Oddly, it's bigger. Had lots of fun at my regular spot. It was empty--pretty much just a few guys and me. Kinda sloppy and mushy but some over-head sets with long rippable wall-ages and some doubling over the inside reef.
Took me about an hour to warm up, and then I hit my stride and got into a nice rhythm. Got real loose and had some good rides. Committed some vertical wrongdoings and some slashing transgressions. My board was working awesomely. Extremely fast off the bottom and very nimble in the pocket. Throwing buckets on slices. It's the fins, stupid.
Two people called me this morning to report that the Right-hander was going off. It looked so-so this afternoon when I got out of the water. But I was completely satisfied with what I got at my usual place. Later by the cars, some of the regulars were showing up, and we were talking and watching the waves. Very relaxing day off.
Posted at 10:27 PM