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February 24, 2007 (Saturday)
Post-session
Smaller, windy/sloppy. Crowded.
Oh, the kooks were out today. On almost every wave, someone was in my way, especially at the end of the session when I was trying to catch a last one in. People paddling out in front of me when I'm taking the drop, people sitting there like buoys on the shoulder, in the face--every frickin' place. You f---ing idiots!
My leg is feeling much, much better. And my board was working quite well. I'm finally getting the hang of it. The turning action off the tail is exceptionally quick and snappy. And it throws a lot of spray. It seems to catch waves better than my F6. I think it's because I have to lie farther up toward the nose because of the increased rocker, and that allows me to stroke into waves more easily. So is it because of the rocker itself or my body positioning? The trick to keeping it from bogging in flat areas and the shoulder is constant rail-to-rail, like mini s-turns, and also turning back to the pit.
Now all I have to do is learn how to surf. Then I'll be, "Good to go."
Posted at 11:07 PM