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April 30, 2007 (Monday)

Post-session

Small, weak, and mushy--and fun. Don’t know what it was, but I was on it. Everything was working: wave selection, wave catching, execution, timing--everything. One of those days. Had a blast and felt great. Trades are stronger. Not crowded.

Posted at 1:47 PM

April 29, 2007 (Sunday)

Post-session

The forecasted bump is nowhere to be seen. Much smaller and gutless. Do-able. Kinda crowded.

Posted at 1:37 PM

April 28, 2007 (Saturday)

Post-session

Very weak and mushy. Some rare head-high. Unusually uncrowded (everyone must be in line buying their Lion King tickets--you silly savages, you).

Posted at 5:53 PM

April 27, 2007 (Friday)

Post-session

Slightly bigger. Weak and mushy but fun. Crowded.

Posted at 1:33 PM

C'mon, Baby, Light...

My board (via Gizmodo).

Posted at 8:34 AM

April 26, 2007 (Thursday)

Post-session

Smaller. Windy, sloppy, and slightly cold (water). Crowded.

Posted at 12:22 PM

April 25, 2007 (Wednesday)

Post-session

Seems like new energy--it's definitely bigger. Moderate trades. Not crowded.

Posted at 1:46 PM

April 24, 2007 (Tuesday)

Post-session

Bad. Windy and sloppy but fun at first. Then I got lost and couldn't find anything for the remainder. Horrendous and deeply disappointing. Initially, me and local pro each at our own peak. Then only me. When I was alone, I couldn't snag a wavelet to save my life. I was really out of it and couldn't get it going. Major kook episode.

Posted at 10:17 PM

April 23, 2007 (Monday)

Post-session

Really weak. Pure wind swell. Was having a difficult time on the outside, then, finally, after much searching and haphazard wandering, found the inside bowl that was doubling onto the ledge. That kept me occupied for the remainder of the time. Started awfully; ended positively.

Posted at 6:09 PM

April 22, 2007 (Sunday)

Post-session

Fun at the Right-hander, but too few waves.

Posted at 1:46 PM

April 21, 2007 (Saturday)

Post-session

Some head-high but gutless. Moderate trades.

Posted at 7:41 PM

April 20, 2007 (Friday)

Post-session

Seems like new energy, but it's weak and puffy. Wind is off/on. Not crowded.

Posted at 3:38 PM

April 19, 2007 (Thursday)

Post-session

Windier but kinda fun. Doubling with the low tide; east angle pretty good with the wind. Not crowded.

Posted at 12:32 PM

April 18, 2007 (Wednesday)

Post-session

About the same. Slightly better form.

Posted at 1:46 PM

April 17, 2007 (Tuesday)

Post-session

Bigger. Some over-head. Windy as heck. Not crowded.

Posted at 7:34 PM

April 16, 2007 (Monday)

Post-session

Wind spittle.

Posted at 10:54 AM

April 15, 2007 (Sunday)

Post-session

Small wind-slop.

Posted at 1:51 PM

April 14, 2007 (Saturday)

Post-session

Not a good day for me. Kooking more than usual. Smaller and windy, but rippable on the inside. Not crowded.

Posted at 1:55 PM

April 13, 2007 (Friday)

Post-session

It's gone. Smaller and sloppy. Still do-able but nothing like yesterday. Not crowded.

Posted at 1:22 PM

April 12, 2007 (Thursday)

Post-session

The Right-hander was going off this morning. Perfect angle/direction, solid 1-3 (maybe some 4s?). Best I've seen it in recent memory. Crowded. Worth it.

Posted at 12:31 PM

April 11, 2007 (Wednesday)

Post-session

Bigger but very sloppy/choppy/disorganized. Not crowded.

Posted at 1:45 PM

April 10, 2007 (Tuesday)

Post-session

New energy--definitely bigger. Excruciatingly-long waits. Crowded. Moderate trades.

Posted at 6:52 PM

April 9, 2007 (Monday)

Post-session

Slightly bigger. Not bad at first, then the sets died.

Paddling was easier, and my body was better acclimated. Still am clumsy. My balance is off and footing is unsure. Difficult to describe, but feels like I can't set up correctly for maneuvers because I can't discern the pivot point. But I'm much more comfortable. One day made a huge difference. New energy tomorrow?

Posted at 5:13 PM

April 8, 2007 (Sunday)

Back Home

I hath returned. Went out this afternoon. My body was aching. Could barely paddle and stand up. Old age. It was crowded. The kooks were in mankai (full bloom).

Posted at 10:03 PM