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May 21, 2007 (Monday)
In Reflection
You know, this morning was fun. I had some really good rides. My board was working fantastically, and I felt great. I've been doing quite well, of late. Been getting some respect, too, which is always necessary when it's crowded.
What makes me the most happy, though, is that I'm improving. I'm surfing better now, albeit incrementally, than I was the same time last year, for instance. I couldn’t ask for more. I mean, a lot of people my age are riding longboards and would be lucky to snag anything on a day like this one that was packed with young, aggressive shortboarders (some of them quite capable).
I'm very fortunate. And even in spite of my maladies, I can go out and have a good time and do my share of damage.
It has a lot to do with equipment. There's absolutely no doubt about it. My new boards from WT have allowed me to become a better surfer. I've increased my skill. I don’t give a f**k what anyone else says, EQUIPMENT MAKES ALL THE DIFFERENCE.
BTW, my friend said there was a big tiger shark near Diamond Head this afternoon. Snatched a diver's load. Same friend also reports that Mr. Slater was surfing Wailupe around noon.
Posted at 11:37 PM