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May 26, 2007 (Saturday)
Post-session
Everyone leaving said it was good and that I would have fun. Silly them.
It didn't look so great. At first it was promising, then it turned to bunk. Sound familiar? It worsened until near the end of the session it was simply wind-slop. I'm happy, though, that it's windy because otherwise all the kooks would be out. The wind is my friend. I can't tell you enough how nice it is to drive up and not see the place clogged with cars and people. Then of course in the water it's empty and open with lots of room.
I did have the opportunity to watch one of our local pros do his thing. He's an older guy, formerly (I think) on the J-circuit (and originally from Japan). You know who he is.
He's so smooth and fluid. I couldn't help but think his board has much to do with it. You're pushed to that conclusion simply because of his maneuvers and the way it cuts through the water. There's not much foam--it's thin (and probably narrow). I wanted to ask him about the dimensions, but I didn't. I wished I could surf like him, emulate his moves. He has power, yes, but he's polished and seemingly infallible (no mistakes, mis-starts, or errors).
Posted at 6:34 PM