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June 2, 2007 (Saturday)
Retrospective Commentaiton
It's been fun the previous several weeks. Scored some really good sessions--probably the best for me of late. I'm extremely happy with my board and the way I've been surfing. Of course, my skill level isn't that high, but I'm quite satisfied with my execution and the way I've been interacting with my equipment. I feel comfortable and relaxed, and I haven't been error-prone. In turn, that's given me confidence, which is essential to removing the obstacles to free expression. And I think that applies to any endeavor, to any sport or art. Creativity can't flow if you're forced to struggle with the medium or focused on overcoming your self.
And it's been crowded. Some days have been like the North Shore in terms of vehicle traffic, beachgoers, sightseers, and surfers. No parking. People everywhere. But that's primarily when the wind is calm and the conditions/form near-perfect. That's why I'd much rather it windy and sloppy to keep away the kooks. But although it's been packed, I've been getting my share. This is due, though, in large part to the fact that I'm a regular, and I know everyone, and I'm thoroughly familiar with the break(s) that I'm surfing. Those things can make all the difference.
The weather has been fantastic, and we should have more good waves on the way. I'm looking forward to it.
Posted at 10:33 AM