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July 2, 2007 (Monday)
Post-session
Awesome! Insane. Best one for me so far this year. It looked out of control, and one of the regulars who had just gotten out said it was un-doable and caught only two waves in one hour. So I was pessimistic.
When I got out, the bigger sets were closing. But once I found the bowl in the middle area (as opposed to waiting on the outside) soon thereafter, I caught waves non-stop for about two hours. It was a machine. Solid 1-3, lined-up walls breaking in the same, exact bowl one after another. I'm not kidding. And it was a blast because it was also challenging: choppy (and windy) with lots of push and steep/double-y.
Finally near the end of the session, several regulars came out, and it got crowded. For the last hour, or so, my wave count slowed, but I was still snagging stuff at least every few minutes. By the time I went in, I was burnt and surfed out. Three hours of continual surfing.
And what totally enhanced the experience was my new board. It's magic. I know, I know: whenever I get a new stick I get hysterical. But truly this one *is* it.
Posted at 6:35 PM