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October 14, 2007 (Sunday)
Post-session
Right-hander. It looked like total crap from the beach. When I got out, it was very fun and only four guys. The angle was east-y with pronounced vee-shaped bowls (not really A-frames) about head-high and feeling the reef nicely. I was having a blast.
Then I lost a contact lens. So-o bummed. Had to paddle in and get a replacement. By the time I got back, there were about ten people; within half an hour, there were more than twenty, which included a handful of longies.
The sets died and the wind got stronger. It became dismal. Too many people, not enough waves.
That time I lost going in and coming back out was crucial. That was the window. I could've scored a bunch of good ones, been satisfied, then called it a day when the crowd multiplied. Instead, I was only partially sated.
Posted at 6:38 PM