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February 19, 2008 (Tuesday)

Post-session

Surfed a right-hander at Mokes late morning with a friend. Variables were on it, but it wasn't crowded. I'll call it 2-4 with 5s and perhaps some rare 6s. Was getting bigger when we left.

Had the middle and inside all to myself. Once I settled in and found my bearings, I was snagging waves non-stop. After 1.5 hours, I was burnt, done. Seriously, I could barely paddle. Had some great rides. I'm surfed out. Might hit it again tomorrow.

Posted at 6:58 PM