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April 17, 2008 (Thursday)
Now
Friend checked it and said it's bigger. Clean but form is kinda warbly with cross-swell. About 25 people at the Right-hander.
I'm still sick. It's all upstairs--congested sinuses. Feel weak and lightheaded. I noticed, too, that yesterday I had a slight shortness of breath. Definitely wasn't paddling with my usual gusto or vigor.
But the immense fun we were having distracted me from my health issues. The rising tide made for some killable slabs. That's because before that, the waves were a bit unforgiving. But with additional water came softer edges, rounder angles, slower sections, and mushier lips, which all added up to blast-o-rama-thon.
Posted at 11:24 AM