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April 8, 2008 (Tuesday)

Session Recap

Even worse. Couldn't believe it. My friend warned me. Should've listened. Flat to shin-high with calm to light onshore breeze.

But it was a beautiful day. Perfect for diving--the water clarity was impressive.

A beginner on a longboard paddled out toward me as I was heading in. He asked about the crowd and "localism." The question and the way he asked it--naïvely, honestly, innocently--made me pause for reflection, although I didn't reveal it in my countenance or demeanor. I had a pang of guilt because I realized that frequently I can be part of the problem, especially at my home-break.

I responded: Naw, everyone's cool, don't worry. He smiled broadly, "Thanks, man." And he paddled away assured and happy.

Posted at 11:51 PM