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April 10, 2008 (Thursday)
Session Recap
The Right-hander. We scored.
When my friend and I got to the beach, there was one guy just entering the water ahead of us. Five guys (four regulars) already out. By the time we reached the spot, everyone had gone in, and it was only the three of us.
Fairly consistent 1-2 with 2.5s and excellent conditions and form. East angle (although true direction was SW), smooth/glassy, lined up, barrel-y over the middle shelf.
I caught some awesome waves. My first one was better than anything I've snagged in over a week.
My board was working extremely well. This was the best stuff I've surfed on my new board so far. Because of the cleanness of the water's surface and the decent push of the waves, I could really feel the action of the tail: very slice-y and with flawless release.
Guess I had the mana, because most of the good ones were coming to me, frequently when I was alone on the outside. I let go the wave of the day because I thought there was a bigger one behind it, which was not the case. After half an hour, I was completely satisfied.
For the final 20-30 minutes, the trades got stronger and the sets died. Five people invaded, and my friend and I were done. From the car, it looked like it was building. Tomorrow might be bigger. Today was a gift.
Posted at 5:13 PM