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April 17, 2008 (Thursday)
Session Recap
Bigger, for sure, but messy and section-y. Good conditions with light onshore breeze. Crowded everywhere.
I had only a few decent rides. The balance of my time was spent trying to get ideal positioning. You had to be in the right place, otherwise you'd be too deep or inside. I missed a lot of good ones because I was sitting too far in the bowl, and the wall would shift and swing wide, forcing me to duck and then watch the wave from behind as its feathered lip raced across the reef.
I caught a fun over-header and rode it all the way to the next break. When I kicked out, there were about five guys paddling out through the inside. That's when the set of the day came in and proceeded to pummel us mercilessly. I'm not exaggerating, and I wish I'd been counting, but there had to have been at least 25 waves. Luckily, I was just shy of the impact zone, so when the whitewater reached me it was a bit softened and dissipated, and I didn't need to take any on the head or absorb freight-train, full-force head-on blasting. Nonetheless, it was tiring.
After that, I decided to call it a day. I went back out, caught a last good one, then surfed the inside for a bit. Town-swell mania is in full swing.
Posted at 6:21 PM