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April 25, 2008 (Friday)
Session Recap
Slightly bigger and packed. And I thought yesterday was crowded.
Got off work late this afternoon. The weather was gloomy. Thick haze and clouds with light rain. As I was sitting in bumber-to-bumber traffic on the freeway, I was thinking it was a good day to take a break. My back and hip were tight and sore. My feet were aching from standing and walking for ten hours. I was beat. That's when I decided there would be no surfing for me today. Eat dinner, lie down.
Of course, once I was home the clouds broke and I suddenly felt compelled to drive to the beach. Hadn't been in the apartment more than five minutes when I realized I had to go surfing.
It was really, really crowded. Practically no parking. Nice conditions and form. Paddled out and caught a handful, maybe a half dozen, then went in. I just wanted to get into the water. It didn't bother me that there were so many people because that's what I expected given all the variables and time of day. And although there were a lot of guys, everyone was mellow.
Posted at 10:59 PM