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May 31, 2008 (Saturday)
Session Recap
Dismal. Kook Kingdom.
Posted at 3:09 PM
May 30, 2008 (Friday)
Session Recap
Smaller. Some surprising occasional bigger ones (SW angle), but high tide was ruining it. Light to moderate trades. Sunny. Kook City.
Posted at 9:20 PM
May 29, 2008 (Thursday)
Session Recap
Smaller and crappy. Crowded. Light to moderate trades, beautiful day.
Posted at 1:12 PM
May 28, 2008 (Wednesday)
Session Recap
Still some sets--might even be bigger. Similar to yesterday. Lots of longboarders.
Posted at 6:03 PM
May 27, 2008 (Tuesday)
Session Recap
Really fun and much better than it looked. Lined-up, long walls with push were feeling the reef nicely and doubling. Then it got crowded. But I was completely satisfied.
Posted at 7:35 PM
May 26, 2008 (Monday)
Session Recap
Small and very fun at first, which was surprising. I was scoring a lot of mushy but rippable bowl-ages. Then it got crowded and inconsistent, and we moved to Ms to finish up. It ended with a whimper.
Posted at 9:12 PM
May 25, 2008 (Sunday)
Session Recap
Did Bs+Ms first, to escape the crowd at my regular place. It sucked, so paddled over to Ms, caught a few decent ones (some sneaker sets on the outside caught me by surprise), then called it a day.
Posted at 2:07 PM
May 24, 2008 (Saturday)
Session Recap
Seems like new energy, SW. Very west-y. Did Ms alone. In the first half-hour, had four awesome rides that totally made my day.
Posted at 9:11 PM
May 23, 2008 (Friday)
Session Recap
Did Ms. Still some sets. My friend was out, and he said it had been going off about a few hours earlier and that he scored. Said it was sunny with smooth conditions and consistent, lined-up walls with only a handful of people. Now, late in the afternoon (after I was done with work), it was overcast and onshore and bumpy/mushy (but not too crowded--less than a dozen). I was bummed.
Soon it began to deteriorate as the onshore breeze got stronger, and the sets got very inconsistent. Eventually, everyone paddled over to the adjacent spot (my regular place), and I began to score some good ones. I had a few that made my day, and soon everything was looking brighter, and I was in a good mood. The rides I had during this time left me completely satisfied and smiling as I made my way in.
Posted at 8:12 PM
May 22, 2008 (Thursday)
Session Recap
Slightly smaller but still pumping. Packed.
We wanted something different, so we went to the A-framer. It sucked, but it was only two of us. Guess it was more an opportunity for us to take a break from the crowd and incessant paddling/ducking.
Afterward, though, when we got back to the cars we saw that our regular spot looked pretty good, or at least better than the A, and that it might've been worth it to tolerate the closeouts and the people.
Posted at 8:02 PM
May 21, 2008 (Wednesday)
Session Recap
It's solid. Some "bombs" were coming in at my regular place. Went to Ms. Just a handful of us. Some good ones.
Onshore wind was light, then moderate, then light again, then strong. For the most part, it was choppy/bumpy with lots of rip.
When I first got there, it was out of control on the outside--folding over and dumping in huge curtaining sections--but then it settled down and became more manageable as the sets dropped a bit in size. And that's when it got real crowded.
Posted at 8:23 PM
May 20, 2008 (Tuesday)
Session Recap
Frickin' fun. Solid head-high to overhead. Good conditions/form. Packed.
Posted at 9:09 PM
May 19, 2008 (Monday)
Session Recap
New energy. At least 100-150% increase in size.
Two of the regulars and I went first to Bs+Ms because our usual place was kinda crowded (after all, U.H. is out for the summer) and because it seemed to be focusing there and on the adjacent spots, for some reason. We stayed for about an hour, then paddled down to Ms. Caught a few then called it a day.
Posted at 9:44 PM
May 18, 2008 (Sunday)
Session Recap
Pretty much the same. Some wave action but weak and mushy. Slightly crowded.
I could barely catch anything because it was so gutless and small. You really needed a longboard. I probably caught three ankle-snappers in 45 minutes as everyone else on big boards did laps around me. It wasn't until I moved into the very inside that I started to snag stuff.
It was, in other words, a perfect day to get hurt. Guess it's been some time since my previous owie, so I was due. I kicked out on a dribbler and tried to do a 360, fell off, and splashed into the water. As I surfaced, the nose of my board hit me on the outside corner of my right eye on the edge of the socket. And it wasn't a tap. The impact was strong.
Immediately I started feeling for some horrific wound. You know it doesn't hurt initially; no swelling either--that takes several minutes. So I was probing for some big flap of skin or deep hole. But there was nothing. But when I touched my eye, there was blood on my fingers.
Anyway, the result was a half-inch gash on the bottom edge of my eye lid. It looked like a pocket, a little pita. It was fairly open. Probably could've used one stitch.
But what was remarkable was that I escaped grave and serious injury. Had the board hit me just fractions of an inch lower or closer in, it would've stabbed me in the eye. Seriously, I'm f***ing lucky.
Tonight, it won't stop leaking blood and fluid, and I considered going to the ER for some glue to seal it. But I think now it's finally beginning to dry up.
Posted at 11:41 PM
May 17, 2008 (Saturday)
Session Recap
Exactly the same except with moderate trades.
Posted at 6:07 PM
May 16, 2008 (Friday)
Session Recap
Flat to knee-high. Micro.
But it felt so-o good to get in the water. It was warm--really warm--and it was extra refreshing, especially after enduring an afternoon post-work, rush-hour drive home on the freeway.
Posted at 10:12 PM
May 15, 2008 (Thursday)
Session Recap
Pretty much the same but even smaller. Did the Right-hander alone. Yesterday's early-morning shift had 60 people in the water (so I heard); today, there were about 10.
Posted at 9:45 AM
May 14, 2008 (Wednesday)
Session Recap
Knee- to waist-high, calm-light onshore, crowded (longies).
Posted at 10:14 AM
May 13, 2008 (Tuesday)
Session Recap
Smaller and onshore (mushy). Doable. Crowded.
Posted at 1:11 PM
May 12, 2008 (Monday)
Session Recap
Slightly smaller and sloppy but fun. A bit crowded.
Posted at 2:15 PM
May 11, 2008 (Sunday)
Session Recap
Pretty much the same but fun. Not crowded at first then Kook Kingdom.
Posted at 1:04 PM
May 10, 2008 (Saturday)
Session Recap
Slightly bigger. Close periods meant lots of cancelling and flattening with the occasional combination forming a good double. Had a really nice head-high one that made my day.
Posted at 8:41 PM
May 9, 2008 (Friday)
Session Recap
Windy and crappy. Empty. Right-hander looked good.
Posted at 3:54 PM
May 8, 2008 (Thursday)
Session Recap
Gutless wind swell with morning sickness. Yuck.
Posted at 10:43 AM
May 7, 2008 (Wednesday)
Session Recap
Looked okay from the beach, but it sucked bad. Really weak, mushy, and slope-y.
Posted at 8:07 PM
May 6, 2008 (Tuesday)
Session Recap
About the same size with lots of wave action but sloppy. End-corner bowl was doable. Empty.
Posted at 5:58 PM
May 5, 2008 (Monday)
Session Recap
About 1-2, windy/sloppy, and fun. Empty.
Posted at 2:43 PM
May 4, 2008 (Sunday)
Session Recap
Seems like some new energy. Went to Ms+Bs, and it was fun. Had it to myself. The high tide allowed me to ride all the way through over the usually shallow reef (with exposed coral heads), and it was fairly lined up and decently formed. I was surprised by some of the doubles that were coming in from the outside. Definitely the best I've experienced it since I started surfing there about a month ago.
Posted at 8:37 PM
May 3, 2008 (Saturday)
Session Recap
Still some residual energy (SW). Surfed two spots. Crowded everywhere else.
Posted at 2:03 PM
May 2, 2008 (Friday)
Session Recap
Might be bigger, but it's very sloppy/disorganized and weak. Jumped in for a quick late one after work.
Posted at 10:31 PM
May 1, 2008 (Thursday)
Session Recap
It dropped a lot. Windy/sloppy.
Posted at 7:25 PM