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June 30, 2008 (Monday)
Session Recap
The A-framer was fun. Ideal angle/direction with surprising push.
At first, it was bumpy and sloppy from the light SE breeze, but eventually the wind slacked considerably and the form improved. Nice bowl-y takeoffs with long walls. Mushy and killable. Not crowded, just a few of us regulars, then packed with after-work guys. After I got out, surveying the area showed all places choked with people.
Posted at 9:12 PM
June 29, 2008 (Sunday)
Session Recap
Made some poor decisions and chose the wrong places. Did Ms and Bs+Ms in search of something but was denied (my luck finally ran out--I've been scoring, of late). Had an awful time. Beautiful day, sunny/hot, but no fun for me.
Posted at 7:48 PM
June 28, 2008 (Saturday)
Session Recap
Smaller. Did Ms again. It was so-so. Moderate E-SE winds making it mushy.
Posted at 12:43 PM
June 27, 2008 (Friday)
Session Recap
About the same. Did Ms alone, and it was fun. Had several really-good rides.
Posted at 9:46 PM
June 26, 2008 (Thursday)
Session Recap
Smaller. Did Ms alone, initially, then invasion by longies.
Posted at 8:17 PM
June 25, 2008 (Wednesday)
Session Recap
New energy, SW. Moderate trades. So-so crowded. Heard there's another swell on the way.
Posted at 8:14 PM
June 24, 2008 (Tuesday)
Session Recap
Same size, perhaps slightly bigger. Okay. Crowded.
Posted at 9:02 PM
June 23, 2008 (Monday)
Session Recap
Smaller, windy/sloppy. Had an awful time. Didn't catch squat. Was always in the wrong place. Sucked.
Posted at 9:33 AM
June 22, 2008 (Sunday)
Session Recap
It dropped. Did Ms with a friend, and it was inconsistent, windy/sloppy.
Posted at 7:55 PM
June 21, 2008 (Saturday)
Session Recap
I think it's bigger. Some fun ones but windy/sloppy. Not crowded.
Posted at 4:25 PM
June 20, 2008 (Friday)
Session Recap
Dismal. Guess I'm jaded from all the good waves we've been getting. There was something, but it was boring and meh.
Posted at 8:41 PM
June 19, 2008 (Thursday)
Session Recap
Smaller but still fun. Windy/sloppy, not crowded.
Posted at 1:32 PM
June 18, 2008 (Wednesday)
Session Recap.
New swell. Significant energy with push. Big, west-y walls. Not crowded and fun.
Posted at 9:51 PM
June 17, 2008 (Tuesday)
Session Recap
About the same. Fun.
Posted at 6:08 PM
June 16, 2008 (Monday)
Session Recap
About the same. Not crowded. Fun.
Posted at 1:25 PM
June 15, 2008 (Sunday)
Session Recap
It's great to be home. Going away is fun, but there's nothing like Hawaii.
Went out at my regular spot. As soon as I pulled up, all I could see were sizeable SW lines flowing in at all places along the coast. Wow. I was amped.
Felt unsure and unsteady on my first few waves--I know it's been only two days--but it didn't take long to get my legs back, so to speak. I was slicing and dicing in no time. Caught some really good ones and did some gratifying bashes and gouges. Sets were easily over-head. Tide was high but the waves had push and energy. I had a blast.
Like I said, it's great to be home. I missed the water and sun. Here's to a wonderful summer.
Posted at 7:12 PM
June 12, 2008 (Thursday)
Session Recap
New energy, lots of west. Light to moderate trades.
Catch some waves for me. See you guys when I get back (Sunday).
Posted at 11:08 AM
June 11, 2008 (Wednesday)
Session Recap
Started at Bs+Ms then moved to Ms. Had both places to myself. I was surprised by some of the sets. Over-headers with some push but choppy and mushy from wind/tide.
Gonna do a morning session tomorrow. Then I'm headed to the mainland for a four-day vacation. That means surf Thu/Sun but miss Fri/Sat.
Posted at 7:52 PM
June 10, 2008 (Tuesday)
Session Recap
Smaller. Boring. Moderate trades. Empty. Glorious summer day.
Posted at 12:53 PM
June 9, 2008 (Monday)
Session Recap
Smaller, empty, fun. Burnt out yet?
Posted at 4:39 PM
June 8, 2008 (Sunday)
Session Recap
It dropped but still some over-headers. Windy/sloppy. Not crowded.
Posted at 1:15 PM
Dry Drowning
From a parent's point of view, secondary drowning is a horrifying possibility to contemplate.
Posted at 9:19 AM
June 7, 2008 (Saturday)
Session Recap
Bigger. Solid. Sloppy/disorganized.
Posted at 8:57 PM
June 6, 2008 (Friday)
Session Recap
Bigger. New energy, for sure. Some solid ones were coming in. Not too crowded. Moderate trades.
Posted at 1:49 PM
June 5, 2008 (Thursday)
Session Recap
Bigger. Very slope-y and mushy from tide. Crowded.
Posted at 7:21 PM
June 4, 2008 (Wednesday)
Session Recap
It dropped. Still something, but tide is making it difficult.
Posted at 5:50 PM
June 2, 2008 (Monday)
Session Recap
Bigger. Definite new energy, seems like S-SW. Did Ms alone. At first some bombers (but mushy/choppy from high tide) then sets died.
Posted at 11:37 PM
Session Recap
Slightly bigger. South swell? Not sure. But it's barely showing, if at all.
Did Bs+Ms. Had it to myself for about 15 minutes, then 10 guys paddled out. Unbelievable. That's simply a staggering number because no one surfs the place.
It was pretty good for the spot, and I had some "fun" ones. When the last two guys joined, I called it a day.
Posted at 7:51 PM
June 1, 2008 (Sunday)
Session Recap
Perhaps slightly bigger. Did Bs+Ms alone then paddled down to my regular place and went in. Tide was ruining it. Kooks were out in force.
Posted at 4:04 PM